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Archive-name: gambling-faq/poker
URL: http://www.conjelco.com/faq/poker.html

-----------------------

Frequently Asked Questions about Poker

This is the rec.gambling.poker Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) list.

Changes or additions to this section of the FAQ should be submitted to:
maurer@etak.com.

Page last modified: 02-08-1998
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Table of Contents

Sections that have been added or modified recently are marked with the tag
[NEW].

P1What are the basic rules of poker? What are the hand rankings?
P2 What are some fun home poker games?
P3 How is Texas Hold'em played?
P4 How is Omaha Hold'em played?
P5 What should I expect the first time I play poker in a casino or card
room? What etiquette should I follow?
P6 What are some good books about poker?
P7 [NEW]What are some good magazines about poker?
P8 What computer poker programs are best for my PC or Mac?
P9 [NEW]What is IRC poker and how can I play?
P10 What skills are important for Texas Hold'em?
P11 What is a good preflop strategy for Texas Hold'em?
P12 What is a good third street strategy for Seven Card Stud?
P13 Why are poker hands ranked the way they are?
P14 Why are ace-hi flushes ranked highest, when it's much harder to get a
seven-hi flush? And similarly for two pairs?
P15 What is the correct ranking for 3-card poker hands?
P16 What are my chances of sucking out on my opponent in Hold'em?
P17 What does pot-limit mean?
P18 What is a kill pot? What is a game with a kill? What is a half kill?
What is a straddle bet?
P19 What is a poker tournament? How does one work? What is a chip race?
What is a satellite?
P20 How does tournament strategy differ from that of regular games?
P21 What is the World Series of Poker? When is it?
P22 What the hell is Rumple Mintz?
P23 What is a burn card and why is it dealt?
P24 What happens if there aren't enough cards in the deck to deal the final
card in 7-card stud?
P25 What is the difference between a shill and a proposition player? What
skills are needed to be one?
P26 What cards are in the Dead Man's Hand?
P27 What are the Las Vegas poker room phone numbers?
P28 [NEW]What poker games are spread in certain Las Vegas casinos?
P29 What do all these poker terms mean?

[NEW]Other web sites of interest:
Dan Kimberg's Poker Page --
http://www.universe.digex.net/~kimberg/poker_frame.html
Rec.Gambling Home Page -- http://rec.gambling.org
Big August Rec.Gambling Excursion -- http://www.barge.org
Poker Central -- http://www.pokercentral.com
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Q:P1 What are the basic rules of poker? What are the hand rankings?
A:P1 [Michael Maurer]

Most variants of poker satisfy the following definition, but in a home game
of course you are free to modify the rules as you see fit.

Poker is a card game in which players bet into a communal pot during the
course of a hand, and in which the player holding the best hand at the end
of the betting wins the pot. During a given betting round, each remaining
player in turn may take one of four actions:

  1. check, a bet of zero that does not forfeit interest in the pot
  2. bet or raise, a nonzero bet greater than preceding bets that all
     successive players must match or exceed or else forfeit all interest
     in the pot
  3. call, a nonzero bet equal to a preceding bet that maintains a player's
     interest in the pot
  4. fold, a surrender of interest in the pot in response to another
     players's bet, accompanied by the loss of one's cards and previous
     bets

Betting usually proceeds in a circle until each player has either called
all bets or folded. Different poker games have various numbers of betting
rounds interspersed with the receipt or replacement of cards.

Poker is usually played with a standard 4-suit 52-card deck, but a joker or
other wild cards may be added. The ace normally plays high, but can
sometimes play low, as explained below. At the showdown, those players
still remaining compare their hands according to the following rankings:

  1. Straight flush, five cards of the same suit in sequence, such as 76543
     of hearts. Ranked by the top card, so that AKQJT is the best straight
     flush, also called a royal flush. The ace can play low to make 5432A,
     the lowest straight flush.
  2. Four of a kind, four cards of the same rank accompanied by a "kicker",
     like 44442. Ranked by the quads, so that 44442 beats 3333K.
  3. Full house, three cards of one rank accompanied by two of another,
     such as 777JJ. Ranked by the trips, so that 44422 beats 333AA.
  4. Flush, five cards of the same suit, such as AJ942 of hearts. Ranked by
     the top card, and then by the next card, so that AJ942 beats AJ876.
     Suits are not used to break ties.
  5. Straight, five cards in sequence, such as 76543. The ace plays either
     high or low, making AKQJT and 5432A. "Around the corner" straights
     like 32AKQ are usually not allowed.
  6. Three of a kind, three cards of the same rank and two kickers of
     different ranks, such as KKK84. Ranked by the trips, so that KKK84
     beats QQQAK, but QQQAK beats QQQA7.
  7. Two pair, two cards of one rank, two cards of another rank and a
     kicker of a third rank, such as KK449. Ranked by the top pair, then
     the bottom pair and finally the kicker, so that KK449 beats any of
     QQJJA, KK22Q, and KK445.
  8. One pair, two cards of one rank accompanied by three kickers of
     different ranks, such as AAK53. Ranked by the pair, followed by each
     kicker in turn, so that AAK53 beats AAK52.
  9. High card, any hand that does not qualify as one of the better hands
     above, such as KJ542 of mixed suits. Ranked by the top card, then the
     second card and so on, as for flushes. Suits are not used to break
     ties.

Suits are not used to break ties, nor are cards beyond the fifth; only the
best five cards in each hand are used in the comparison. In the case of a
tie, the pot is split equally among the winning hands.

Several variations are possible when playing for low. Some games permit the
ace to play low and ignore straights and flushes, making 5432A the best
possible low, even if it makes a straight flush. Other games just reverse
the order used for high hands, making 75432 of mixed suits the best
possible low. Still others count straights and flushes against you but let
the ace play low, making 6432A best. Note that in most games in which the
ace plays low, a pair of aces is lower than a pair of deuces, just as an
ace is lower than a deuce.

When a joker is in play, it usually can only be used as an ace or to
complete a straight or flush. It cannot be used as a true wild card, for
example, as a queen to make QQ43X play as three queens. When playing for
low, the joker becomes the lowest rank not already held, so 864AX is played
as 8642A, with the joker used as a deuce.

Although true wild cards are rarely seen in a casino, they are a popular
way to add excitement to a home game. Wild cards introduce an additional
hand, five of a kind, which normally ranks above a straight flush. They can
also cause confusion when two players hold the same hand composed of
different wild card combinations. The standard rules of poker do not
distinguish between such hands, but some players prefer to rank hands using
fewer wild cards above less "natural" versions of the same hand.

Another explanation of poker is at
http://www.contrib.andrew.cmu.edu/org/gc00/reviews/pokerrules .
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Q:P2 What are some fun home poker games?
A:P2 [Michael Maurer]

There are enough crazy home game poker variants to fill a book. Good
sources of games ranging from plain to insane are
http://www.wolfenet.com/~peter/poker and
http://www.contrib.andrew.cmu.edu/org/gc00/reviews/poker.html.

Poker variants differ in the amount of skill they admit. Some, like 7-card
stud high/low with declare (no qualifier), provide skilled players many
opportunities to gain an edge. Others are a virtual crap shoot. In general,
the crazier games are designed to discourage folding and minimize the
influence of skill on the outcome. They accomplish this through a betting
structure that requires a large investment before the value of one's hand
is known. The level playing field that results is ideal for many informal
social groups.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Q:P3 How is Texas Hold'em played?
A:P3 [Michael Maurer]

Texas Hold'em is a "community card" game, meaning that some cards are dealt
face-up in the middle of the table and shared by all the players. Each
player has two down cards that are theirs alone, and combines them with the
five community cards to make the best possible five-card hand.

Play begins by dealing two cards face down to each player; these are known
as "hole cards" or "pocket cards". This is followed by a round of betting.
Most hold'em games get the betting started with one or two "blind bets" to
the left of the dealer. These are forced bets which must be made before
seeing one's cards. Play proceeds clockwise from the blinds, with each
player free to fold, call the blind bet, or raise. Usually the blinds are
"live", meaning that they may raise themselves when the action gets back
around to them.

Now three cards are dealt face up in the middle of the table; this is
called the "flop". A round of betting ensues, with action starting on the
first blind, immediately to the dealers left. Another card is dealt face up
(the "turn"), followed by another round of betting, again beginning to the
dealer's left. Then the final card (the "river") is dealt followed by the
final round of betting. In a structured-limit game, the bets on the turn
and river are usually double the size of those before and on the flop.

The game is usually played for high only, and each player makes the best
five-card combination to compete for the pot. Players usually use both
their hole cards to make their best hand, but this is not required. A
player may even choose to "play the board" and use no hole cards at all.
Identical five-card hands split the pot; the sixth and seventh cards are
not used to break ties.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Q:P4 How is Omaha Hold'em played?
A:P4 [Michael Maurer]

The rules of Omaha are very similar to those of Texas Hold'em. There are
only two differences:

   * Each player receives four hole cards, instead of two.
   * One must use *exactly* three community cards and two hole cards to
     make one's hand.

The second difference is confusing for most beginners. These examples show
how it works.

    Board        Hole Cards     Best High Hand
    =====        ==========     ==============
As Kc Qc 8d 2d   Ac 2c Jd Th    Jd Th makes ace-hi straight.

As Kc Qc Jh Td   Ac 2c Jd 8h    Ac Jd makes ace-hi straight.

As Kc Qc Jh Td   3c 2c Jd 8h    Jd 8h makes pair of jacks.  No straight
                                is possible using two hole cards.

As Ks 8h 9d 2s   Qs 4h 4d 4s    Qs 4s makes AKQ42 "nut" flush.

As Ks 8s 9s 2s   Qs 4h 4d Qd    Qs Qd makes pair of queens.  No flush is
                                possible using two hole cards.

As Ts 8s 8h 4d   Td Tc Ad 9c    Td Tc makes TTT88 full house.

As Ts 8s 8h 4d   Td 8c Ad 9c    Ad 8c makes 888AA full house.

As Ac 8s 8h 4d   Ah 2h 3h 5h    Ah 5h makes trip aces AAA85.  No full
                                house is possible using two hole cards.

As Ac 8s 8h 4d   Ah 2h 3h 4h    Ah 4h makes full house AAA44.

Omaha is often played high/low, meaning that the highest and lowest hands
split the pot. The low hand usually must "qualify" by being at least an
8-low (the largest card must be 8 or lower). One can use a different two
cards to compete for the high and low portions of the pot, and the game is
played "cards speak" rather than "declare". Aces are either low or high,
and straights and flushes don't count for low. Since everybody must use two
hole cards to make a hand, the board must have three cards 8 or lower for a
low to even be possible. Players often tie for low, and the low half of the
pot is divided equally among them. Some more examples:

    Board        Hole Cards     Best Low Hand
    =====        ==========     =============
As Kc Qc 8d 2d   8c Jc Jd Th    Jd Th makes the low hand JT82A, which
                                does not qualify as 8-or-better.

3d 5h 8d Tc Ts   Ac 2c Jd Th    Ac 2c makes the "nut low" 8532A.

3d 5h 8d Tc Ts   Ac 3c 4d Th    Ac 4d makes 8543A.

3d 5h 8d Ad Ts   Ac 3c 5d 8h    Any two make T853A, not qualifying.

Ac 2c 3d 4h 5s   Ad 2d Th Td    Ad 2d makes "nut low" 5432A.

Ac 2c 3d 4h 5s   4d 5d Th Td    4d 5d makes "nut low" 5432A.

5h 7h 8d Ac 2c   Ad 2d Th Td    Ad 2d makes 8752A, but the nut low is
                                5432A with a 3 and 4.  On the flop we
                                had the best possible low, but the turn
                                and river "counterfeited" us.

As in all split-pot games, the real goal of playing any hand is to win both
halves of the pot, or "scoop". Thus, hands that have a chance to win both
ways are far superior to those that can only win one way.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Q:P5 What should I expect the first time I play poker in a casino or card
room? What etiquette should I follow?
A:P5 [Michael Maurer]

Many people are intimidated on their first visit to a public cardroom.
Knowing what to expect and some simple rules of etiquette will help the
first-time visitor relax and have a good time.

Any cardroom with more than a few tables will have a sign-up desk or board
for the various games being played. Usually someone will be standing here
to take your name if a seat is not immediately available. This person can
explain what games are offered, the betting limits, special house rules and
so on. This is the moment of your first decision: which game and for what
stakes?

Choosing a game is fairly easy; you already know which game is most
familiar to you. You may be surprised to find that your favorite home games
are not spread in public cardrooms. Most will offer one or more of Texas
Hold'em, Seven-Card Stud, and Omaha Hold'em (usually hi/lo split,
8-or-better for low). Sometimes you will find California Lowball (5-card
draw for low), Seven-Card Stud hi/lo, or Hold'em variations like Pineapple.
You will rarely find High Draw (5-card draw for hi), and will never find
home game pot-builders like Anaconda, Follow-the-Queen, 7-27 or Guts.
Except for the joker in draw poker, cardrooms never use wild cards.

Choosing a betting limit is a bit harder. It is best to start playing at a
limit so small that the money is not important to you. After all, with all
the excitement of your first time playing poker there is no need to be
worried about losing the nest egg to a table full of sharks. Betting limits
are typically expressed as $1-$5 or $3-$6, and may be "spread-limit" or
"structured-limit". A spread-limit means one can bet or raise any amount
between the two numbers (although a raise must be at least as much as a
previous bet or raise). For example, in $1-$5 spread-limit, if one person
bets $2 the next person is free to call the $2 or raise $2, $3, $4, or $5,
but cannot raise just $1. On the next round, everything is reset and the
first bettor may bet anything from $1 to $5. In structured-limit like $3-$6
(usually recognizable by a factor of two between betting limits), all
betting and raising on early rounds is in units of $3, and on later rounds
is in units of $6. One only has a choice of *whether* to bet or raise; the
amount is fixed by the limit. One usually doesn't have a choice between
spread and structured betting at a given limit. Keep in mind that it is
quite easy to win or lose 20 "big bets" (the large number in the limit) in
an hour of play. Also, since your mind will be occupied with the mechanics
of the game while the regular players consider strategy, you are more
likely to lose than win. In other words: choose a low limit.

If the game you want is full, your name will go on a list and the person
running the list will call you when a seat opens up. Depending on the
cardroom, you may have trouble hearing your name called and they may be
quick to pass you over, so be alert. Once a seat is available, the list
person will vaguely direct you toward it, or toward a floorman who will
show you where to sit.

Now is the time for you to take out your money and for the other players to
look you over. A good choice for this "buy-in" is ten to twenty big bets,
but you must buy-in for at least the posted table minimum, usually about
five big bets. Most public poker games are played "table-stakes", which
means that you can't reach into your pocket for more money during the play
of a hand. It also means that you can't be forced out of a pot because of
insufficient funds. If you run out of money during a hand you are still in
the pot (the dealer will say you are "all-in"), but further betting is "on
the side" for an additional pot you cannot win. Between hands, you are free
to buy as many chips as you want, but are not allowed to take any chips off
the table unless you are leaving. This final rule gives opponents a chance
to win back what they have lost to you. If you bust out, you may buy back
in for at least the table minimum or leave.

Once you have told the dealer how much money you are playing, the dealer
may sell you chips right away or call over a chip runner to do so. You may
want to tell the dealer that you are a first-time player. This is a signal
to the dealer to give a little explanation when it is your turn to act, and
to the other players to extend you a bit of courtesy when you slow down the
game. Everyone will figure it out in a few minutes anyway, so don't be
bashful. You may even ask to sit out a few hands just to see how it all
works.

There are three ways that pots are seeded with money at the beginning of
the hand. The most familiar to the home player is the "ante", where each
player tosses a small amount into the pot for the right to be dealt a hand.
The second way, often used in conjunction with an ante, is the "forced
bring-in". For example, in seven-card stud, after everyone antes and is
dealt the first three cards, the player with the lowest upcard may be
forced to bet to get things started. The third way, often used in games
without upcards like Hold'em or Omaha, is a "forced blind bet". This is
similar to the bring-in, but is always made by the person immediately after
the player with the "button". The "button" is a plastic disk that moves
around the table and indicates which player is acting as dealer for the
hand (of course, the house dealer does the actual dealing of cards, but
does not play). A second or even third blind may follow the first, usually
of increasing size. Whichever seed method is used, note that this initial
pot, small as it is, is the only reason to play at all.

If the game has blinds, the dealer may now ask you if you want to "post".
This means, "do you want to pay extra to see a hand now, in bad position,
and then pay the blinds, or are you willing to sit and watch for a few
minutes?" Answer "no, I'll wait" and watch the game until the dealer tells
you it's time to begin, usually after the blinds pass you.

Finally, it is your turn to get cards and play. Your first impression will
probably be how fast the game seems to move. If you are playing stud,
several upcards may be "mucked" (folded into the discards) before you even
see them; if you are playing hold'em, it may be your turn to act before you
have looked at your cards. After a few hands you should settle into the
rhythm and be able to keep up. If you ever get confused, just ask the
dealer what is going on.

When playing, consider the following elements of poker etiquette:

Acting in Turn

Although you may see others fold or call out of turn, don't do it yourself.
It is considered rude because it gives an unfair advantage to the players
before you who have yet to act. This is especially important at the
showdown when only three players are left. If players after you are acting
out of turn while you decide what to do, say "Time!" to make it clear that
you have not yet acted.

Handling Cards

You may find it awkward at first to peek at your own cards without exposing
them to others. Note that the other players have no formal obligation to
alert you to your clumsiness, although some will. Watch how the other
players manage it and emulate them. Leave your cards in sight at all times;
holding them in your lap or passing them to your kibitzing friend is
grounds for killing your hand. Finally, if you intentionally show your
cards to another player during the hand, both your hands may be declared
dead. Your neighbor might want to see *you* declared dead :) if this
happens!

Protecting Cards

In a game with "pocket cards" like Hold'em or Omaha, it is your
responsibility to "protect your own cards". This confusing phrase really
means "put a chip on your cards". If your cards are just sitting out in the
open, you are subject to two possible disasters. First, the dealer may
scoop them up in a blink because to leave one's cards unprotected is a
signal that you are folding. Second, another player's cards may happen to
touch yours as they fold, disqualifying your hand and your interest in the
pot. Along the same lines, when you turn your cards face up at the
showdown, be careful not to lose control of your cards. If one of them
falls off the table or lands face-down among the discards your hand will be
dead, even if that card is not used to make your hand.

Accidentally Checking

In some fast-paced games, a moment of inaction when it is your turn to act
may be interpreted as a check. Usually, a verbal declaration or rapping
one's hand on the table is required, but many players are impatient and
will assume your pause is a check. If you need more than a second to decide
what to do, call "Time!" to stop the action. While you decide, don't tap
your fingers nervously; that is a clear check signal and will be considered
binding.

String Bets

A "string bet" is a bet that initially looks like a call, but then turns
out to be a raise. Once your hand has put some chips out, you may not go
back to your stack to get more chips and increase the size of your bet,
unless you verbally declared the size of your bet at the beginning. If you
always declare "call" or "raise" as you bet, you will be immune to this
problem. Note that a verbal declaration in turn is binding, so a verbal
string bet is possible and also prohibited. That means you cannot say "I
call your $5, and raise you another $5!" Once you have said you call,
that's it. The rest of the sentence is irrelevant. You can't raise.

Splashing the Pot

In some home games, it is customary to throw chips directly into the pot.
In a public cardroom, this is cause for dirty looks, a reprimand from the
dealer, and possibly stopping the game to count down the pot. When you bet,
place your chips directly in front of you. The dealer will make sure that
you have the right number and sweep them into the pot.

One Chip Rule

In some cardrooms, the chip denominations and game stakes are
incommensurate. For example, a $3-$6 game might use $1 and $5 chips,
instead of the more sensible $3 chip. The one-chip rule says that using a
large-denomination chip is just a call, even though the chip may be big
enough to cover a raise. If you don't have exact change, it is best to
verbally state your action when throwing that large chip into the pot. For
example, suppose you are playing in a $1-$5 spread-limit game, the bet is
$2 to you, and you have only $5 chips. Silently tossing a $5 chip out means
you call the $2 bet. If you want to raise to $4 or $5, you must say so
*before* your chip hits the felt. Whatever your action, the dealer will
make any required change at the end of the betting round. Don't make change
for yourself out of the pot.

Raising Forever

In a game like Hold'em, it is possible to know that you hold "the nuts" and
cannot be beaten. If this happens when all the cards are out and you get in
a raising war with someone, don't stop! Raise until one of you runs out of
chips. If there is the possibility of a tie, the rest of the table may
clamor for you to call, since you "obviously" both have the same hand.
Ignore the rabble. You'll be surprised how many of your opponents turn out
to be bona fide idiots.

The Showdown

Hands end in one of three ways: one person bets and everyone else folds,
one person bets on the final round and at least one person calls, or
everybody checks on the final round. If everybody folds to a bet, the
bettor need not show the winning cards and will usually toss them to the
dealer face down. If somebody calls on the end, the person who bet or
raised most recently is *supposed* to immediately show, or "open", their
cards. They may delay doing so in a rude attempt to induce another player
to show their hand in impatience, and then muck their own hand if it is not
a winner. Don't do this yourself. Show your hand immediately if you get
called. If you have called a bet, wait for the bettor to show, then show
your own hand if it's better. If the final round is checked down, in most
cardrooms everyone is supposed to open their hands immediately. Sometimes
everyone will wait for someone else to show first, resulting in a
time-wasting deadlock. Break the chain and show your cards.

Most cardrooms give every player at the table the right to see all cards
that called to a showdown, even if they are mucked as losers. (This helps
prevent cheating by team-play.) If you are extremely curious about a
certain hand, ask the dealer to show it to you. It is considered impolite
to constantly ask to see losing cards. It is even more impolite if you hold
the winning cards, and in most cardrooms you will forfeit the pot if the
"losing" cards turn out to be better than yours.

As a beginner, you may want to show your hand all the time, since you may
have overlooked a winning hand. What you gain from one such pot will far
outweigh any loss due to revealing how you played a particular losing hand.
"Cards speak" at the showdown, meaning that you need not declare the value
of your hand. The dealer will look at your cards and decide if you have a
winner.

As a final word of caution, it is best to hold on to your winning cards
until the dealer pushes you the pot. If the dealer takes your cards and
incorrectly "mucks" them, many cardrooms rule that you have no further
right to the pot, even if everyone saw your winning cards. A dishonest
player might try to steal the pot from you with a despicable trick. When
you bet and all others fold, he may conceal his hand in the hope that you
will toss your cards into the muck, whereupon he will call and win the pot.

Raking in the Pot

As you win your first pot, the excitement within you will drive you beyond
the realm of rational behavior, and you will immediately lunge to scoop up
the precious chips with both arms. Despite the fact that no other player
had done this while you watched, despite the fact that you read here not to
do it, you WILL do it. Since every dealer has a witty admonition prepared
for this moment, maybe it's all for the best. But next time, let the dealer
push it to you, ok?

Touching Cards or Chips

Don't. Only touch your own cards and chips. Other players' chips and cards,
discards, board cards, the pot and everything else are off-limits. Only the
dealer touches the cards and pot.

Tipping

Dealers make their living from tips. It is customary for the winner of each
pot to tip the dealer 50 cents to a dollar, depending on locale and the
stakes. Sometimes you will see players tip several dollars for a big pot or
an extremely unlikely suckout. Sometimes you will see players stiff the
dealer if the pot was tiny or split between two players. This is a personal
issue, but imitating the other players is a good start.

Correcting Mistakes

Occasionally the dealer or a player may make a mistake, such as miscalling
the winning hand at the showdown. If you are the victim of such a mistake,
call it out immediately and do not let the game proceed. If your opponent
is the victim, let your conscience be your guide; many see no ethical
dilemma in remaining silent. If you are not involved in the pot, you must
judge the texture of the game to determine whether to speak up. In general,
the higher the stakes, the more likely you should keep your mouth shut.

Taking a Break

You are free to get up to stretch your legs, visit the restroom and so on.
Ask the dealer how long you may be away from your seat; 20 or 30 minutes is
typical. It is customary to leave your chips sitting on the table; part of
the dealer's job is to keep them safe. If you miss your blind(s) while
away, you may have to make them up when you return, or you may be asked to
sit out a few more hands until they reach you again. If several players are
gone from a table, they may all be called back to keep the game going;
those who don't return in time forfeit their seats.

Color Change

If you are in the happy situation of having too many chips, you may request
a "color change" (except in Atlantic City). You can fill up a rack or two
with your excess chips and will receive a few large denomination chips in
return. These large chips are still in play, but at least you aren't
inconvenienced by a mountain of chips in front of you. Remember the one
chip rule when betting with them.

Leaving

Leave whenever you feel like it. You never have an obligation to stay at
the table, even if you've won a fortune. You should definitely leave if you
are tired, losing more than you expect, or have other reasons to believe
you are not playing your best game. Depending on the cardroom, you can
redeem your chips for cash with a chip-runner or floorman or at the
cashier's cage.

House Charges

Last but not least is the matter of the house take. Somebody has to
maintain the tastefully opulent furnishings and pay the electric bill. The
money taken by the house is called the "drop", since it is dropped down a
slot in the table at the end of each hand. The house will choose one of
three ways to charge you to play.

Time Charge
     A simple "time charge" is common in higher limit games and at some
     small games: seats are rented by the half hour, at rates ranging from
     $4 to $10 or so, depending on the stakes. This method charges all
     players equally.
Rake
     Other cardrooms will "rake" a percentage of the final pot, up to some
     maximum, before awarding it to the winning player. The usual rake is
     either 5% or 10%, capped at $3 or $4. If the pot is raked, the dealer
     will remove chips from the pot as it grows, setting them aside until
     the hand is over and they are dropped into a slot in the table. This
     method favors the tight player who enters few pots but wins a large
     fraction of them.
Button Charge
     A simpler method is to collect a fixed amount at the start of each
     hand; one player, usually the one with the dealer button, pays the
     entire amount of the drop. Depending on house rules, this "button
     charge" of $2-$4 may or may not play as a bet. If the chips do play as
     a bet, this method also favors the tighter players, but not nearly as
     much as the rake does.

Regardless of the mechanism, a cardroom will try to drop about $80-$120 per
hour at a $3-$6 table. The exact amount is most dependent on the local cost
of doing business: Nevada is low, California and Atlantic City are high.
Since there are 7-10 players at the table, expect to pay somewhere from $7
to $14 per hour just to sit down. Add $2-$4 per hour for dealer tips and
you see why most low-limit players are long-run losers.

More information on cardroom play and etiquette can be found in George
Percy's "Seven-Card Stud: The Waiting Game" and Lee Jones' "Winning
Low-Limit Holdem". Beginning players may also want to watch for special
cardroom promotions to draw new players; many offer free lessons followed
by a very low-stakes game with other novices. Since everyone is a beginner,
much of the tension is relieved.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Q:P6 What are some good books about poker?
A:P6 [Michael Maurer, December 1994]

All thinking poker players should have this book on their shelf:

     David Sklansky, "The Theory of Poker" (formerly titled "Winning
     Poker"), Two Plus Two Publishing, 1992, $29.95. ISBN
     1-880685-00-0.

Beginners will benefit from this pamphlet which concentrates on Texas
Hold'em and Seven Card Stud:

     Mason Malmuth and Lynne Loomis, "Fundamentals of Poker", Two Plus
     Two Publishing, 1992, $3.95. ISBN 1-880685-11-6.

This classic in the field is an advanced but slightly out-of-date work
covering a wide range of games, including an excellent section on no-limit
Hold'em:

     Doyle Brunson et al., "Super/System: A Course in Poker Power", B
     & G Publishing, 1978/1989, $50. ISBN 0-931444-01-4.

The most recommended book for medium-limit Hold'em is

     David Sklansky and Mason Malmuth, "Hold'em Poker for Advanced
     Players", Two Plus Two Publishing, 1988/1993, $29.95. ISBN
     1-880685-01-9.

This recent work by a fellow rec.gambler has received several favorable
reviews from low-limit Hold-em players:

     Lee Jones, "Winning Low-Limit Holdem", ConJelCo, 1994, $19.95.
     ISBN 1-886070-04-0.

Beginning Seven Card Stud players must read this small spiral-bound gem:

     George Percy, "7 Card Stud: The Waiting Game", GBC Press, 1979,
     $9. ISBN 0-89650-903-6.

More experienced stud players may benefit from

     David Sklansky, Mason Malmuth and Ray Zee, "Seven Card Stud for
     Advanced Players", Two Plus Two Publishing, 1992, $29.95. ISBN
     1-880685-02-7.

Finally, in a different vein is the following book about reading your
opponents and preventing them from reading you:

     Mike Caro, "The Body Language of Poker" (formerly titled "Mike
     Caro's Book of Tells"), Gambling Times Inc., 1984/1994, $18.95.
     ISBN 0-89746-100-2.

Many of these books are available to rec.gamblers with an Internet discount
from ConJelCo. See Dan Kimberg's Poker Book Review Archive at
http://www.universe.digex.net/~kimberg/reviews.html for some unsolicited
reviews that have appeared on the net.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Q:P7 [NEW]What are some good magazines about poker?
A:P7 [Michael Maurer]

Card Player is the best established periodical for poker players. Each
issue has several columns specifically about poker strategy, including
regular features by famous authors like Mike Caro, Mason Malmuth, and David
Sklansky. It lists schedules for small daily and weekly tournaments in the
U.S. and Europe and reports large tournament results. Other sections cover
gambling and the law, cardroom management, sports betting and general
gambling news. Because it is financed largely by casino industry
advertisements, it does not print unfavorable casino news and is not a good
place to find a balanced review of a cardroom. It is available free in most
cardrooms and offers subscriptions at first-class and bulk-mail rates.

        The Card Player
        3140 S. Polaris #8
        Las Vegas, NV  89102
        (702) 871-1720
        (702) 871-2674 FAX
        http://www.cardplayer.com

A newcomer is Poker magazine.  Poker solicits article submissions at
editor@pokermag.com.  Subscriptions are available from

        Circulation Services
        PO Box 4005
        Beaverton, OR 97076-9908
        (800)752-6353

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Q:P8 What computer poker programs are best for my PC or Mac?
A:P8 [Hans Ruegg, John Salmom]

Commercial Programs

There are many poker programs available but the quality of them ranges from
terrible to fairly good. The following are worth considering:

Conjelco Sozobon Poker for Windows

Plays 7-card stud or Texas Holdem. Requires Windows 3.1 or Windows 95.

Plays ring games or one-table tournaments. Computer players try to adjust
to your style. They use a randomized algorithm to mix up their play. You
start with $100 and progress to tougher tables and tournaments as your
bankroll grows.

A demo version that only plays 7-card stud is available. It has most of the
features of the real version and is quite playable as is. The demo program
is available on the ConJelCo FTP server (ftp.conjelco.com).

Wilson Software Turbo Series

Seperate games are available for Texas Holdem, 7-card stud, Omaha-8 and
Omaha High. There are both ring-game and tournament versions. Runs under
DOS.

Computer players are driven by large tables describing each decision point.
These tables can be modified by the user to create new players. Play
against the computer or let the computer players play each other in a fast
mode. Check resulting statistics for the various strategies.

Demo versions of Texas Holdem, 7-card stud, and Omaha-8 are available. The
demos are limited in that only 50 rounds can be played and the cards are
always the same. You can get the demos via FTP from the ConJelCo server
(ftp.conjelco.com).

Masque World Series of Poker Adventure

Plays Texas Holdem, 7-card stud and Omaha. Also plays blackjack and other
casino games. Runs under DOS.

This is more of a fun simulation of playing in the World Series at Binions.
Play ring games or other casino games to get enough money to enter a
satellite. Win the satellite to get into the no-limit finals. Poker
opponent play is pretty good, but not exactly World Champion level.

No demo. Sometimes can be found in retail computer software stores.
Simplified versions with only one game for a cheaper price (Masque Lite
series) can also sometimes be found.

[NEW]Electronic Arts PowerPoker
For Macintosh.  This program has received mixed reviews from the r.g.p
community.  Some people love it and others hate it.  You'll have to decide
for yourself.

Netpoker

[John Salmon]

Netpoker is a suite of programs for multi-player hold'em over the internet.
It is UNIX-specific at the moment, but ports to other platforms are
encouraged. The C source code is available free of charge under the GNU
Public License at
ftp://ftp.cco.caltech.edu/pub/johns/netpoker/netpoker.tar.gz. If you are
not on a UNIX system, it is possible to play netpoker via telnet; see the
Netpoker home page at http://www.cco.caltech.edu/~johns/netpoker for
details.

Source Code

If you want to write some of your own poker software, a fast poker hand
evaluator is available at
ftp://ftp.csua.berkeley.edu/pub/rec.gambling/poker/poker.tar.gz. It is in C
but uses some Gnu C extensions.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Q:P9 [NEW]What is IRC poker and how can I play?
A:P9 [Michael Maurer, February 1998]

IRC poker is a real-time network poker game that allows people from around
the world to play poker with each other via the Internet. The stakes are
"etherbucks", which is to say imaginary. Each player's imaginary bankroll
is recorded from session to session, and rankings of both bankroll and
earning rate inspire competitiveness. An automatic program serves as the
dealer and controls the action. World Wide Web users can find out more
about the dealer program by looking at
http://www.cs.cmu.edu/~mummert/ircbot.html. Note: don't confuse this IRC
poker game with the older 5-card draw games on regular IRC
(http://www.mcgill.ca/services/IRC_Poker/homepage.html) or undernet IRC
(http://www.atlantic.net/~phod).

The game uses the Internet Relay Chat, or IRC, to arrange communications
amongst the players and with the dealer. IRC is normally a sort of global
cocktail party, with several thousand people from around the globe engaged
in small pockets of conversation on various "channels". Within each
channel, anything one person types appears on the screens of all the other
people tuned in to the channel (although one person can also "whisper"
privately to another). The poker channels are unusual in that an automaton
is always present to supervise a poker game. However, the chat aspect of
the channel is preserved, so that the poker games can become quite social.

In order to play IRC poker, you must have an IRC client and access to the
Internet. The client is a program running on your local machine that
connects you to the IRC network. If you are on a Unix machine, try typing
'irc' to see if a client is already installed. If not, or if you are on a
Macintosh, PC or VMS system, you will have to obtain a client by FTP. (See
below for details about Gpkr, an excellent Windows interface to IRC Poker.
If you can run Gpkr, you dont' need a regular IRC client.)  One archive
site for IRC clients is ftp://cs-ftp.bu.edu/pub/irc/clients. The Unix
client is named ircII. This archive also contains a primer on using IRC.
The official IRC FAQ is available at ftp://ftp.undernet.org/irc/docs, or
from ftp://rtfm.mit.edu/pub/usenet/alt.irc. An excellent Windows client is
mIRC, available at http://gator.naples.net/~nfn03824/mirc/main.html.

If you are online through a large national provider, such as AOL or
CompuServe, you may not have true Internet access. What this means is that
you may not be able to run any of the publically available IRC clients on
your local machine. Instead, you may have to use a special program designed
to work through your provider. You'll have to ask your provider if they
offer IRC connections.

Once you have a client up and running, you need to connect to the special,
isolated IRC poker server. In order to speed up the games, the poker server
is not a part of the standard IRC network. The different clients have
various ways to specify the IRC server you want to use; on Unix you can say

        irc nickname irc.poker.net
or      irc nickname 204.32.41.79

where 'nickname' is the name by which you will be known to other IRC users.
After a moment, this command should connect you to the IRC poker server and
print a welcome message. (From this point on the instructions are
Unix-specific, but many of the commands will work on the other clients as
well).

At this point you can find out what channels are open by typing

/list

which prints the topic of each channel, or you can see a more detailed view
with

/names

which lists all of the people on each channel. As of May 1994, typical
channels included #holdem, #omaha, and #nolimit. To join a particular
channel (for instance, #holdem), type

/join #holdem

The action of the poker game and the ongoing conversations should now
appear on your screen. The play of the game is governed by sending special
messages to the dealer automaton; for example, the message

p fold

indicates that you wish to fold. All poker commands are prefixed with the
letter 'p'. The command

p commands

gives a list of all possible commands. The most important are

p join password         % join the game (pick any password)
                        % this starts your bankroll at $1000
p quit                  % quit the game
p fold                  % fold when the action gets to you
p check                 % check (do not bet or fold)
p call                  % call a bet
p raise                 % raise the bet

On the non-structured channels like #nolimit, some of these commands may
take an argument, such as

p raise 50

When you join the channel you will notice the conspicuous absence of these
'p' commands despite the ongoing play. This is because most players send
their messages privately to the dealer only, using a command like

/msg hbot p raise

where 'hbot' is the nickname of the dealer. (This is especially useful to
hide your password when you join.)

Because poker players are inherently lazy, most users of ircII have a
special set of IRC macros that saves them the effort of typing all those
characters each time they have to act. These poker macros are available
from ftp://ftp.csua.berkeley.edu/pub/rec.gambling/poker/ircrc.poker. The
file contains instructions for using it on a Unix machine. Although mIRC
doesn't understand these macros, it does let you set up customized menus
and aliases yourself.

The most popular Windows interface to IRC poker is Greg Reynolds' Gpkr,
available for free at www.anet-stl.com/~gregr.  Gpkr is reguarly maintained
and sure to be up to date with the latest IRC poker changes.  Another
graphical interface for Windows is at http://www.mcs.net/~dsa/vpoker.htm.
Although this is commercial software, you can try it out for 30 days for
free.

In addition, curses and X-windows based front ends have been written for
the poker games. The curses version uses simple terminal graphics to draw
pictures of your cards and those of the other players, helping you to
visualize the action. When other players fold their cards are mucked, and
the board and pot are shown in the middle. This front end can be used in
conjunction with the IRC macros mentioned above. Both curses and X-windows
versions of the program are available on the web in source code form for
Unix machines at http://www.jcsw.com/poker.html.

Finally, some IRC poker statistics are available by looking at the URL
http://www-star.stanford.edu/~maurer/r.g.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Q:P10 What skills are important for Texas Hold'em?
A:P10 [Michael Hall]

(Hold 'em) Poker Skills in Order of Importance

Disclaimer: I'm a poker novice, not an expert.

0. Table selection
1. Hand selection
2. Reading opponents' hands
3. Opponent assessment
4. Heads up play, bluffing, and semi-bluffing
5. Seat selection
6. Check-raising
7. Getting tells
8. Pot odds calculations

The exact order of importance of skills varies by game type. For example,
you cannot read your opponent when your opponent does not know what he has.
The list above is geared towards mid-level games where some sanity prevails
but the game is not at an expert level either.

0. Table Selection.

By far the most important skill is table selection, so it ranks better than
#1, it's #0. It doesn't matter how well you play if you are always picking
the games with no fish where even an expert can't beat the rake. Most of
your income will come from a few very bad players. If you play fairly well,
you won't lose much to the better players, nor win much from the slightly
inferior players; it's the fish that count.

1. Hand selection

Now that you've found your table with a live one or two, be patient. More
than just having the discipline to play good hands and the stomach for
surviving the variance, you should realize that most of our income in Hold
'em comes from AA and KK, with notable mention to the other pocket pairs
and AK. Your object is to not lose too much while waiting for these premium
hands, and particularly not to lose too much to these hands when other
players get them. At $10-$20 and below, go ahead and make it 3 bets if you
can before the flop with your AA or KK; you'll be surprised at how little
respect you get with people calling you all the way to the river even
though your betting is screaming "I HAVE POCKET ACES!!!" And respect
preflop raises done by other players, dumping a lot of hands you would
normally play such as AT and KJ or even AJ and KQ, as you don't want to
make top pair versus an overpair. On the flop, don't bet into someone who
has made it three bets unless you can beat the shit out of AA and KK and
*want* to be raised back and then just call and go for a check-raise on the
turn.

2. Reading opponents' hands

Now, think about the range of hands and their probabilities that your
opponents could have. Initially, when the players receive their first two
cards, every possible two card hand is equally probable (unless you start
grouping them like 87 offsuit, pocket aces, etc., but you get the idea.)
Every action a player takes gives you information that you can use to
adjust these probabilities. It's a Bayesian inference problem.
Unfortunately, actually applying Bayes' rule exactly is beyond any puny
human brain's capability. So, you make a major approximation and
essentially just keep around a set of possible hands, which you then prune
down as action take place.

Suppose a player just calls preflop in early position and the flop comes Q
7 2 offsuit and he suddenly goes berserk by reraising, you have to think
about what hands are likely. The hands that make sense to reraise like that
are AQ, KQ, Q7, 72, Q2, 77, and 22. QQ would probably be slow-played here
instead. Now join that set with the possible hands before the flop. We can
just look at these hands and see which are reasonable to just call preflop
in early position. AQ and KQ are often raised in early position, but at
least sometimes they just call, so they are still consistent. Q7, 72, and
Q2 are not reasonable calls from early position. 77 and 22 are reasonable
calls, though tight players would probably dump the 22. So that leaves AQ,
KQ, 77, and 22 as his possible hands, which has narrowed down the field
quite a bit. Be aware also of how other players may interpret your betting.

3. Opponent assessment

As play goes along, give yourself a running commentary of the events, "she
open-raises, he folds, he cold-calls...". You must make a lot of mental
notes based on this, and you must do this even when you're not in a hand,
because in addition to being useful during a hand, it's useful for later
hands. You want to see the frequency with which a player sees the flop, the
frequency with which a player defends his blinds from raises, and the hands
a player open-raises with, raises with, reraises with, cold-calls with, and
just calls with. This in conjunction with narrowing down the hands above
will often give you a good idea of what's going on even when there is no
showdown. Your goal is to stereotype each player, as well as to note
particular idiosyncrasies of the individuals for use not only now but in
future sessions.

4. Heads up play, semi-bluffing, and bluffing

Especially when heads-up, you should be constantly applying pressure to the
other player to make him fold. You may reraise when you think you're either
beaten badly or your opponent is bluffing. It's a bit like chess or
wargames, with attacks, feints, counterattacks, and graceful retreats. This
is part of the "feel" of poker that's hard to put into words, but hopefully
you get the idea. Bluffing and semi-bluffing is important to keep yourself
unpredictable, and with since you're keeping track of the ranges of
plausible hands, it's quite likely you'll often know where your opponent
stands. Cold bluffing is usually restricted to the river, where you might
bet into one or two opponents (who might fold) if you have no chance of
winning the pot if there is a showdown. Semi-bluffing is betting with a
hand that is not likely best but has some big outs. Your opponent may fold
immediately, and if not, you may hit your out and your opponent may
seriously misread you. There is an important balance here; you must have
sufficiently tight hand selection criteria such that when you do bet your
opponent is positively terrified that you may have a big hand like an
overpair. Semi-bluffing is very powerful, because you've been so careful in
choosing your starting hands that even if you aren't there yet you are
likely to get there.

5. Seat selection

Generally, you want the loose aggressive players to your right and the
tight passive players to your left. This is so that you can see a raise
coming before calling the first bet. However, if the game is tight enough
that it is being folded around to the blinds often, then you want some very
tight passive players in the two seats to your right, so that your blinds
will not be stolen. This is a very important skill, and just because you've
found a good table, doesn't mean that every seat at that table would be a
winning seat on average for you.

6. Check-raising

Because the nature of fixed limit Hold 'em makes calling one bet often
correct for very weak hands, it's difficult to protect your hand. A major
weapon you have to protect your hand is check-raising. However, you must be
conscious of where you think the bettor will be. Typically, if you had a
made but vulnerable hand you would check in early position if you thought
there would be a bet in late position; you then raise and the players in
between face two bets plus a risk of a reraise by the late position player,
making it difficult for them to call. If you have an invulnerable hand that
you want to make everyone pay you through the nose for, then you would
check in early position if you thought there would be an early position
bet, and then you would raise after everyone trailed in calling behind. The
down side of check-raising is that you risk giving a free card if no one
bets.

7. Getting tells

Be aware of tells. If a player has his hands on his chips and is leaning
forward, all ready to raise if you bet, usually this is an act intended to
get you to just check, as the player in fact does not what to raise you or
maybe even call a bet. Two other incredibly valuable tells are the "what
the heck, I raise" tell (get *out*, he has a monster!) and the "let me
check to see if I have one of that suit with three on the board" tell (so
you know he doesn't have a flush already.) Remember that if they think
they're being watched, players typically act the opposite of what they
have.

8. Pot odds calculations

Be aware of pot odds. You can count the number of "outs" you have to
estimate if calling is a positive expected value play. You may be surprised
that I rank this so low. Although it is a subjective opinion, particularly
when heads up it's much more important outplay your opponent rather than
outdraw him. In loose games, outdrawing becomes much more important, but
then the pots are so big that you usually have odds for any half way
reasonable draw anyway.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Q:P11 What is a good preflop strategy for Texas Hold'em?
A:P11 [Michael Hall]

Some portions of this entry refer to copyrighted materials from Two Plus
Two Publishing. They are used with the expressed permission of the authors
and publisher.

SKLANSKY & MALMUTH HAND RANKINGS

         AKQJT98765432
         |||||||||||||
       A-1122355555555
       K-2123467777777
       Q-3413457      s
       J-45513468     u
       T-66652457     i
       9-888773458    t
       8-   8874568   e
       7-      85578  d
       6-       8657
       5-        8668
       4-         8778
       3-           78
       2-            7
           unsuited

e.g., KQ suited is group 2,
      KQ unsuited is group 4

SKLANSKY & MALMUTH PREFLOP ADVICE

The advice presented here for starting hands is a summary of part of
Sklanksy and Malmuth's book "Hold 'em for Advanced Players". I strongly
advise you to buy the book, as these notes are no substitute, and it is an
excellent book.

Key:
     Numbers refer to the groups above.
     1..8 means groups 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8, and similarly for other ranges.
     + and - mean add or subtract that group for the listed circumstance.
     tight means the circumstance is it's a tight game.
     loose means the circumstance is it's a loose game.
     OPEN-RAISE means raise if no one else has yet called/raised the big
     blind.
     RAISE means raise a call or big blind.
     RERAISE means raise a raise.
     OPEN-CALL means be the first call after the big blind (one bet)
     CALL means call big blind (one bet.)
     CALL2 means call one raise (two bets.)
     CALL3 means call reraise cold (three bets.)
     2/3 and other fractions mean do the play that fraction of the time.
     AKs and other hands followed by "s" are suited.
     Ax and other hands followed by "x" means kicker "x" is small

EARLY POSITION (1st, 2nd, 3rd to left of big blind)

OPEN-RAISE
     AA,KK,QQ,AK,AQ, 2/3 (1/1 vs weak) AKs,AQs,AJs,KQs, 1/3 hands like T9s,
     JJ in tight but call JJ in typical or loose
RAISE
     AA,KK,QQ,AK,AQ, 2/3 (1/1 vs weak) AKs,AQs,AJs,KQs
RERAISE
     AKs and maybe AQs (if you called initially) and if a lot of players in
     then hands like JTs
OPEN-CALL
     1..4 (loose +5, tight -4) beware hands like 87s,77 playable only vs
     loose & passive (many callers not much raising)
CALL
     same as OPEN-CALL
CALL2
     1..2 (loose +3 beware AQ, tight -2's AJs KQs)
CALL3
     1? (loose +2?) not JJ (but CALL2 JJ if 2 raises after your call, be
     prepared to fold if fail to flop set)

MIDDLE POSITION (4th, 5th, and 6th to left of big blind)

OPEN-RAISE
     1..3, 1..6 if >=25% chance of stealing blinds
RAISE
     1..3 usually, but 3 depends # callers wanted and strength of opponents
     (raise if weaker)
RERAISE
     AA,KK,QQ,AKs,AK, occasionally T9s,88,etc
OPEN-CALL
     1..5 (+6 loose) don't just open-call with hands like AKs
CALL
     1..5 (+6 loose), consider how weak callers are
CALL2
     still need very good hand 1..2, maybe some 3's
CALL3
     not JJ (but CALL2 JJ if 2 raises after your call, be prepared to fold
     if fail to flop set)

LATE POSITION (button, 1st sometimes 2nd right of button)

OPEN-RAISE
     any playable hand if on button 1..8 and also Ax & Kx vs very tight or
     weak opponents Ax & Kx if on button vs very tight or weak
RAISE
     1..3, sometimes 4, if many callers don't raise with high unsuited but
     can with 1..5 suited connectors, can with any playable hand that wants
     few opponents with 1-2 nonearly callers e.g., A7s, KJ, QJ, and even as
     weak as QT, if on button sometimes can with small pair or small suited
     connectors
RERAISE
     1, if raiser opened late position as weak as 4 but limit to 1..3
     unless AJ KQ or weak playera
OPEN-CALL
     usually open-raise or fold instead
CALL
     1..6 usually, +7 if on button & some callers, +8 and e.g. Q5s if on
     button & many callers
CALL2
     still need very good hand, maybe 1..3, but if many callers then
     T9s,88,...
CALL3
     1? but not JJ (but CALL2 JJ if 2 raises after your call, be prepared
     to fold if fail to flop set)

SMALL BLIND

OPEN-RAISE
     because big blind has position, usually don't raise with most hands
     e.g. A6, unless big blind would fold >= 30% of the time
RAISE
     same as big blind RAISE, but even tighter
RERAISE
     AA, KK, not automatically AK or QQ, 1..6 if played should reraise vs
     stealer but only when heads up
CALL(1/2)
     still be fairly selective but somewhat loose, e.g., 85, any two
     suited, but not e.g. J2. if only 1/3 bet to call, play every hand,
     unless big blind player is frequent raiser.
CALL2(3/2)
     same as early or middle CALL2, unless heads up against stealer in
     which case see RERAISE, or many callers in which case you can perhaps
     play hands like 33 or 86s.
CALL3(5/2)
     1? but not JJ

BIG BLIND

OPEN-RAISE
     N/A
RAISE
     only extremely good hands AK with 1-2 late callers hands like JTs,
     T9s, 55 if many callers
RERAISE
     AA, KK, not automatically AK or QQ, 1..6 if played should reraise vs
     stealer
CALL(0)
     check usually
CALL2(1)
     essentially same as LATE CALL2 unless up against stealer, in which
     case 1..8 if weak but 1..6 if strong or caller in between. tighten if
     caller on left & raiser on right but can do flush & straight draws
     like A6s 87, loosen if raiser on left, can maybe play hands like 33 or
     86s if many callers, beware KJ.
CALL3(2)
     1? but not JJ

LATE POSITION BLIND (posted one to right of dealer)

OPEN-RAISE
     usually *any* hand, but not if opponents will almost always defend
     blinds with any hand
RAISE
     if already many callers, rarely raise with a hand that you would not
     raise with if you did not post
OPEN-CALL
     instead OPEN-RAISE
CALL(0)
     may wish to check even good hand as deception
CALL2(1)
     can call with slightly worse than in big blind, against stealer heads
     up ok to call with any ace and most kings
CALL3(2)
     like normal late position CALL2 or CALL3?

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Q:P12What is a good third street strategy for Seven Card Stud?
A:P12 [JP Massar]

Some portions of this entry refer to copyrighted materials from Two Plus
Two Publishing. They are used with the expressed permission of the authors
and publisher.

The following is a tight strategy that will serve you well in lower-limit
(15-30 and below) structured (as opposed to spread-limit) seven card stud
games.

Following this strategy in spread-limit games is also OK, but it is too
conservative if the game is passive (such as many of the 1-5 games at
Foxwoods). Also, you will go out of your mind with boredom in such loose,
passive games, because each hands takes forever (because so many people are
in, and they are generally slower than average players) and you will be
playing only a small percentage of the hands you are dealt.

If you have regular opponents who also play a decent game, then against
them you will have to start varying this strategy once they figure out that
you are also a good player.

These guidelines are derived from 'Seven Card Stud for Advanced Players',
by Sklanksy, Malmuth and Zee, and are a simplification of the ideas found
therein.

The only hands you should play if it is a raise and a reraise to you are:

   * Rolled-up trips.
   * A 3-straight-flush (e.g., 4 5 6 of clubs) with at most one gap (e.g.,
     4 5 7 of clubs, but not 4 6 8 or 4 5 8 of clubs)
   * A pair higher than the upcards of both the raiser and reraiser, or a
     pair of Aces.
   * A 3-flush if no more than 1 of your suit is showing elsewhere AND you
     have at least one card higher than the upcards of both the raiser and
     reraiser.

The hands you should play if it is a raise to you, or you limped in and
there was a subsequent raise:

   * Rolled up trips.
   * Any 3-straight-flush, 0 1 or 2 gaps.
   * Any big pair (tens or higher), UNLESS
        o (A) the raiser has a higher upcard and (B) there is caller, also
          with a higher upcard, OR
        o the raiser has a higher upcard and you are quite confident (from
          a significant amount of previous observation) that the raiser
          would not raise without at least a pair as big as his upcard, OR
        o your big pair is smaller than the raiser's upcard AND one or more
          of your pair is showing elsewhere.
     If your big pair is higher than the raiser's upcard, then you should
     always reraise if one of your pair is your upcard, and often reraise
     even if both are hidden.
   * A small pair (9's or lower), AND, as your 3rd card, an Ace or a King,
     AND, there are no other upcards as high as your Ace or King showing on
     the board, AND no other card matching your pair is showing.
   * Any live 3-flush (no more than 1 of your suit elsewhere), unless you
     are almost certain to be heads up with the raiser AND you have no live
     card which is higher than the raiser's upcard.
   * A 3-flush in which two of your suit are elsewhere, AND you are almost
     certainly not heads-up with the raiser, AND you have a live card
     higher than the raiser's upcard.
   * A 3-flush in which three of your suit are elsewhere, AND you have two
     live cards higher than the raiser's upcards.
   * A 3-straight (2 3 4 and A 2 3 are NOT 3-straights), in which all of
     your straight cards are live.
   * A 3-straight, in which all but one of your straight cards are live,
     AND you have a live card higher than the raiser's upcard.
   * A 3-straight, in which all but two of your straight cards are live,
     AND you have two live cards higher than the raiser's upcard.
   * AKQ or KQJ, if the raiser has an upcard smaller than your smallest
     card, and your cards are completely live.

The additional hands you can limp-in with, not covered in the immediate
above section.

   * Any 3 big cards (ten or higher), as long as they are all completely
     live. If there is a subsequent raise, you should immediately fold.
   * A medium or small pair without an Ace or King kicker, as long as your
     3 cards are completely live AND there are no more than 2 higher
     upcards to your pair still to act. If there is a subsequent raise, you
     should immediately fold, unless your 3rd card makes a 2-straight-flush
     (e.g., 8c, 8d, 7c).
   * Any 3-flush with no more than 2 other of your suit showing. If you
     find yourself subsequently head up against a raiser, fold unless you
     can satisfy the criteria in the section immediately above.
   * Any 3-straight with no more than one of your straight cards showing.
   * Any 3-straight, whose highest card is T or higher, with no more than 2
     of your straight cards showing.
   * Any 3-straight, with no more than two of your straight cards showing,
     AND which has two cards of the same suit, AND no more than 1 of that
     suit is showing elsewhere.

Hands which you should raise with, if no one has raised yet:

   * Any big pair (tens or higher), as long as no more than 1 unduplicated
     higher upcard is active in the game, or is yet to act.
   * Any pair, if no one has yet entered the pot, and your pair is higher
     than any other upcard yet to act.
   * A live 3 flush (1 or fewer of your suit showing) with an A, K or Q as
     one of the cards, if at least 3 other players have voluntarily limped
     in.
   * A live 3 flush with an A, K, or Q showing, if no one has yet entered
     the pot.
   * A live 3-straight, if your highest card is higher than any up card
     active or yet to act, AND no one folded a card of the same rank as
     your highest card.
   * Any 3 big cards (ten or higher) if all 3 cards are higher than any
     upcard active or yet to act, AND they are all completely live.
   * Any 3 cards except total, absolute trash, if you are the last player
     and every other player has folded to you.

     "If there is one guideline that needs to be remembered when
     looking at your first three cards, it is this: PLAY ONLY HANDS
     THAT ARE LIVE. When in doubt, throw your hand away. Remember that
     the most important decision you will make in seven-card stud is
     whether to play your hand..."

--- SM&Z, p. 48
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Q:P13 Why are poker hands ranked the way they are?
A:P13 [Michael Maurer, Darse Billings, Roy Hashimoto]

The standard poker hands are ranked based on the probability of their being
dealt pat in 5 cards from a full 52-card deck. The following table lists
the hands in order of increasing frequency, and shows how many ways each
hand can be dealt in 3, 5, and 7 cards.

Hand                  3 cards           5 cards           7 cards
====                  =======           =======           =======
Straight Flush             48                40            41,584
Four of a Kind              0               624           224,848
Full House                  0             3,744         3,473,184
Flush                   1,096             5,108         4,047,644
Straight                  720            10,200         6,180,020
Three of a Kind            52            54,912         6,461,620
Two Pair                    0           123,552        31,433,400
One Pair                3,744         1,098,240        58,627,800
High Card              16,440         1,302,540        23,294,460
=================================================================
TOTALS                 22,100         2,598,960       133,784,560

Notes:

1. The standard rankings are incorrect for 3-card hands, since it is easier
to get a flush than a straight, and easier to get a straight than three of
a kind. See question P15.

2. For 7-card hands, the numbers reflect the best possible 5-card hand out
of the 7 cards. For instance, a hand that contains both a straight and
three of a kind is counted as a straight.

3. For 7-card hands, only five cards need be in sequence to make a
straight, or of the same suit to make a flush. In a 3-card hand a sequence
of three is considered a straight, and three of the same suit a flush.
These rules reflect standard poker practice.

4. In a 7-card hand, it is easier for one's *best* 5 cards to have one or
two pair than no pair. (Good bar bet opportunity!) However, if we changed
the ranking to value no pairs above two pairs, all of the one pair hands
and most of the two pair hands would be able to qualify for "no pair" by
choosing a different set of five cards.

5. Within each type of hand (e.g., among all flushes) the hands are ranked
according to an arbitrary scheme, unrelated to probability. See question
P14.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Q:P14 Why are ace-hi flushes ranked highest, when it's much harder to get a
seven-hi flush? And similarly for two pairs?
A:P14 [Michael Maurer]

Only the classes themselves (flush, straight, etc) are ranked by the
probability of getting them in five cards. Within each class we use an
arbitrary system to rank hands of the same type. For example, our arbitrary
system ranks four aces higher than four deuces, even though the hands occur
with the same frequency. Similarly, flushes are ranked by the highest card,
with the next highest card breaking ties, and so on down to the fifth card.
This has the curious effect of creating many more ace-hi flushes than any
other kind, because any flush that contains an ace is "ace-hi", regardless
of the other cards. Thus, although 490 of the 1277 flushes in each suit
contain a seven, only four of them are seven-hi flushes: 76542, 76532,
76432, and 75432. The median flush turns out to be KJT42.

A similar situation occurs for two pair hands. There are twelve times as
many ways to make two pair with aces being the high pair ("aces up") as
there are to do it with threes as the high pair ("threes up"). While the
aces can go with another other rank of pair, the threes must go with twos,
or we would reverse the order and call them, for instance, "eights up".
Note that it is fruitless to alter the relative rankings to try to account
for this imbalance, since as soon as we do the cards will be reinterpreted
to make the best hand under the new system. For example, if we decide to
make "threes up" the best possible two pair hand, now all the hands like
"eights and threes" will be interpreted as "threes and eights", and the
population of "threes up" hands will soar twelve-fold. The median two pair
hand turns out to be a tie between JJ552 and JJ44A.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Q:P15 What is the correct ranking for 3-card poker hands?
A:P15 [Darse Billings]

The standard ranking of poker hands is based on their frequency of
occurrence in a five card hand. In three card hands the relative frequency
of hands is different, so different in fact that three of a kind beats a
straight, and a straight beats a flush.

The following is a break down of all three card poker hands. They can be
used for certain three card games, such as Guts or 3-card-6. They can also
be used to analyze starting hands for games like 7-Card Stud.

Hand Type      Kinds   Each   Total     Cuml   Rating
---------      -----   ----   -----     ----   ------
straight flush   12      4       48       48   0.9978
trips            13      4       52      100   0.9955
straight         12     60      720      820   0.9629
flush  **       274      4     1096     1916   0.9133
pair  ***       156     24     3744     5660   0.7439
Ace high         64     60     3840     9500   0.5701
King high        54     60     3240    12740   0.4235
Queen high       44     60     2640    15380   0.3041
Jack high        35     60     2100    17480   0.2090
Ten high         27     60     1620    19100   0.1357
Nine high        20     60     1200    20300   0.0814
Eight high       14     60      840    21140   0.0434
Seven high        9     60      540    21680   0.0190
Six high          5     60      300    21980   0.0054
Five high         2     60      120    22100   0.0000

** More on Flushes
------------------

High Card       Kinds Percent  Total    Cuml   Rating
---------       ----- -------  -----    ----   ------
Ace high         64    23.4     256     1076   0.9513
King high        54    19.7     216     1292   0.9415
Queen high       44    16.1     176     1468   0.9336
Jack high        35    12.8     140     1608   0.9272
Ten high         27     9.9     108     1716   0.9224
Nine high        20     7.3      80     1796   0.9187
Eight high       14     5.1      56     1852   0.9162
Seven high        9     3.3      36     1888   0.9146
Six high          5     1.8      20     1908   0.9137
Five high         2     0.7       8     1916   0.9133

*** More on Pairs
-----------------

Hand Type      Kinds   Each    Total    Cuml   Rating
---------      -----   ----    -----    ----   ------
   AAx           12     24      288     2204   0.9003
   KKx           12     24      288     2492   0.8872
   QQx           12     24      288     2780   0.8742
   JJx           12     24      288     3068   0.8612
   TTx           12     24      288     3356   0.8481
   99x           12     24      288     3644   0.8351
   88x           12     24      288     3932   0.8221
   77x           12     24      288     4220   0.8090
   66x           12     24      288     4508   0.7960
   55x           12     24      288     4796   0.7830
   44x           12     24      288     5084   0.7700
   33x           12     24      288     5372   0.7569
   22x           12     24      288     5660   0.7439

In the preceding tables, "Kinds" refers to the number of card combinations
in each class, while "Each" is the number of non-distinct hands of each
Kind. The product of these two numbers gives the total number of hands in
that class. "Cuml" is the cumulative total of all hands, and "Rating" is a
percentile ranking of the lowest hand in the class.

Note that "Rating" is only an estimate of the probability of beating a
random hand. To compute the exact probability, a given hand must be
compared to the (49 choose 3) combinations of the remaining cards in the
deck.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Q:P16What are my chances of sucking out on my opponent in Hold'em?
A:P16 [Jason Steinhorn]

The following is an extension of the probability table offered by Sklansky
and Malmuth in their Hold'em For Advanced Players. It lists the probability
(%) and odds (X:1) of making any given hand on the turn, the river, or
combined turn and river, given the number of outs for the hand.

Below that is a chart listing the number of outs given a particular drawing
hand, and what hands those outs will give if made.

   Chances of making a hand on the turn/river/both

        turn    turn    river   river   t/r     t/r
 Outs   (%)     (X:1)    (%)    (X:1)   (%)    (X:1)
------------------------------------------------------
  20    42.6    1.35    43.5    1.30    67.5    0.48
  19    40.4    1.47    41.3    1.42    65.0    0.54
  18    38.3    1.61    39.1    1.56    62.4    0.60
  17    36.2    1.77    37.0    1.71    59.8    0.67
  16    34.0    1.94    34.8    1.88    57.0    0.76
  15    31.9    2.13    32.6    2.07    54.1    0.85
  14    29.8    2.36    30.4    2.28    51.2    0.96
  13    27.7    2.62    28.3    2.54    48.1    1.08
  12    25.5    2.92    26.1    2.83    45.0    1.22
  11    23.4    3.27    23.9    3.18    41.7    1.40
  10    21.3    3.70    21.7    3.60    38.4    1.61
   9    19.1    4.22    19.6    4.11    35.0    1.86
   8    17.0    4.88    17.4    4.75    31.5    2.18
   7    14.9    5.71    15.2    5.57    27.8    2.59
   6    12.8    6.83    13.0    6.67    24.1    3.14
   5    10.6    8.40    10.9    8.20    20.4    3.91
   4     8.5    10.75    8.7    10.50   16.5    5.07
   3     6.4    14.67    6.5    14.33   12.5    7.01
   2     4.3    22.50    4.3    22.00   08.4    10.88
   1     2.1    46.00    2.2    45.00   04.3    22.50

   Number of Outs Given a Particular Hand to Improve

 Outs   Given                           In attempt to make
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
  15    Open Straight Flush Draw        Straight, Flush, Straight Flush
  12    Inside Straight Flush Draw      Straight, Flush, Straight Flush
   9    Flush Draw                      Flush
   8    Open Straight Draw              Straight
   4    Gut Shot Straight               Straight
   4    2 Pair                          Full House
   2    1 Pair                          Three of a kind
   1    Three of a Kind                 Four of a kind

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Q:P17 What does pot-limit mean?
A:P17 [Steve Brecher]

This is an explanation of bet size limits in pot limit poker.

In pot limit, as in all poker, you may fold, or call the previous bet --
which may be a forced blind, if there is no previous voluntary bet -- or
you may raise. A raise, as in all poker, must be at least as large as the
previous bet or raise. In pot limit, however, your raise may be no larger
than the size of the pot after your call. If you are the opening bettor on
a round for which no blinds are made, your bet can be no more than the size
of the pot.

Say that the pot contains p units before a previous bettor bets (or blinds)
b units. You wish to raise the maximum. What is the total amount that you
should bet?

The size of the pot when it is your turn to act is p+b. Your action
includes a call, making the pot p+2b, and thus the amount of your raise
will be p+2b and your total bet will be p+3b. Therefore:

If you wish to raise the previous bettor (or big blind) the maximum amount,
your total bet will be three times the previous bet plus the size of the
pot before the previous bet was made. If you are the first to act on the
first round, the size of the pot before the previous bet is the total of
the small blind(s), and the previous bet is the big blind.

Sometimes the minimum betting unit is larger than the size of one or more
blinds. E.g., it may be that only $5 chips play for betting, but one or
more blinds are smaller than $5. In this case, the maximum initial bring-in
is rounded to the betting unit.

Some people state the general rule that the maximum initial bring-in is
"four times the big blind." This is correct only if the total of the small
blinds, after rounding if appropriate, is equal to the big blind, and this
is not always the case. E.g., in a tournament when the blinds are $100 and
$200, the maximum bring-in is $700, not $800. The correct rule is "three
times the big blind plus the total of the small blinds, rounded as
appropriate."

Examples:

   * 1, 2, and 5 blinds. 3 times 5 = 15; 15 + 1 + 2 = 18. Assuming that the
     minimum betting unit is 5, the maximum initial bring-in would be 18
     rounded up to become 20 -- a raise of 15.
   * With 1, 2, and 5 blinds, someone brings it in for 10. The maximum bet
     of the next to act would be 3 times 10 = 30, plus the total blinds of
     7, rounded up to 40 -- a raise of 30.
   * The pot contains, say, 1 unit. Suppose each successive bettor wishes
     to raise the maximum; how fast will the bets increase?

       size of pot before                   3 x previous bet
       previous bet         previous bet   + size of pot before
                                             previous bet
                                              = next bet

            1                   -                 1
            1                   1                 4
            2                   4                14
            6                  14                48
           20                  48               164
           68                 164               560
          232                 560              1912

     So, if the initial pot size were $100, the seventh maniacal raiser
     would be making a total bet of $191,200. The action can escalate
     quickly.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Q:P18 What is a kill pot? What is a game with a kill? What is a half kill?
What is a straddle bet?
A:P18 [Stephen Landrum]

Big bet (no-limit or pot-limit) poker frequently allows a player to "kill
the pot", by posting an amount equal to current to-go amount, and the
amount to-go (to come into the hand, or call preflop) is now double the
kill amount. In no-limit games, players are frequently allowed to kill for
more than the to-go amount, but for no more than 1/2 of their stack. Some
games allow overkills - after someone has killed the pot, someone else can
kill it again, raising the amount to-go to double the new kill amount.
There may be a limit to the number of kills allowed on a hand, even though
the game is "no-limit". Killing the pot alters the order of action
preflop/predraw. The killers act after the blinds in the order in which
they killed the pot. After the flop or draw, action returns to its normal
order.

To kill the pot in Hold'em or other flop games, the kill must be announced
(either verbally or by placing the amount of the kill in the pot) before
any cards are dealt. Draw lowball games frequently allow players to kill
the after seeing two cards - and some places even allow a kill in lowball
after the 3rd card is dealt. No-limit draw lowball also frequently allows
the player with the big blind to place a blind which is larger than the
normal amount, but still smaller than the to-go amount, and the new to-go
amount is twice the big blind.

Example: In a 1-2-2, 5-to-go Hold'em game, the player on the button (who
also has the $1 blind) decides to kill it for $5, rebuying his right to act
last before the flop. The blinds now look like 5-2-2, and the game is now
10-to-go. After the player to the right of the button acts, the two $2
blinds act, then the killer acts.

Example: In a draw-lowball game, 1-1-2 blinds, 4-to-go, the player with the
big blind puts out $3 before cards are dealt and it is now 6-to-go. After
two cards are dealt, the player to the right of the button kills the pot
for $10, and it is now 20-to-go. The player after the blinds is first to
act. After the player in front of the killer acts, the button and other
blinds must act, and then the killer acts.

Limit lowball games also frequently allow a player to kill the pot from any
position. In this case, the killer makes a blind of the current limit, and
the limit is doubled for that hand. As in no-limit games, the player who
kills the pot acts last after the blinds before the draw, and action
resumes to the normal order after the draw.

In addition, some limit games are played with a kill or a half kill. In
these games, there is some condition which if met, raises the stakes of the
game - doubling them in the case of a kill game, or increasing them by 50%
in the case of a half kill. In addition to the normal blinds posted for the
game, the player who met the kill condition must post a blind equal to the
new small bet size. This blind is instead of the small or big blind if the
player would have been in position to have one of those. In some clubs the
killer gets to act last after the blinds; but in others the killer acts in
normal turn order.

In a high only game, the condition is typically that someone wins two pots
in a row. In a high-low split game, the condition is usually that someone
takes the whole pot, and that the pot is some minimum size.

For example: in a 10-20 Omaha-8 game with a half kill that I've played in,
if someone scoops a pot with $100 in it, then they must post a $15 blind
and the next hand the game is 15-30.

What is a straddle bet?
In limit Hold'em and other flop games players are frequently allowed to
make a bet called a straddle bet, sometimes known as a live blind, live
raise, or live-<amount> where <amount> is the amount of the bet. The player
who follows the big blind and would normally be under the gun can raise
before cards before cards are dealt.  Players that act after him must call
the raise, fold, or raise the bet themselves.  The straddler's raise is
live - if no-one else raises, s/he has the option to reraise after the
blinds have acted.  If straddle bets are allowed, the player behind the
straddler can also post a straddle by raising again, and so on until the
maximum number of bets is reached.

For example:  In a 6-12 game, the blinds are 3 and 6, the player after the
small blind makes it live-12 by raising before the cards are dealt, and the
player after him can make it live-18.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Q:P19 What is a poker tournament? How does one work? What is a chip race?
What is a satellite?
A:P19 [Michael Maurer]

Basics

A poker tournament is an event in which poker players compete for all or
part of a prize pool. Each player pays an entry fee and initial buy-in for
a set number of tournament chips. The chips are non-negotiable, having no
cash value except at the end of the tournament. The contestants play until
all but one or a few are busted; the top finishers divide up the prize pool
according to the tournament rules. The game's stakes increase with time to
hasten the tournament's end.

Variations

Within this framework is considerable room for variation. Many tournaments
permit "rebuys", which allow a busted player to reenter the tournament by
immediately posting additional money to the prize pool. The number of
rebuys may be unlimited, limited to one or a few, or limited to an initial
period of the tournament. Rebuys may also be available to players with
short stacks or even to all active players. Some tournaments allow an
"add-on", a one-time opportunity for all active players to buy a set number
of additional chips, again increasing the prize pool. The add-on may be
available at the end of the rebuy period, at the beginning of the
tournament, or, rarely, at any time during the rebuy period. The exchange
rate for rebuys and add-ons may be better than that for the initial buy-in.
A tournament with no rebuys is called a "freezeout". The betting structure
may be limit only, pot-limit, no-limit, or a mixture, usually limit in the
early rounds and no-limit later. Whatever the betting structure, the blinds
or betting limits increase regularly, perhaps doubling every twenty minutes
in a small tournament, or more slowly in a large one.

The Chip Race

A confusing aspect of the increasing stakes is the way in which some
tournaments get rid of the small denomination chips. At some point in the
tournament, the dealer may "race off" all the red $5 chips. Each player
puts all their red chips in front of them, and the dealer converts them to
as many green $25 chips as possible. Whatever red chips remain are raced
off: each player receives one card for each chip, and the player receiving
the highest card (ace, king, etc) wins everybody's reds and converts them
to greens. Bridge suits break ties for the high card (spades, hearts,
diamonds, clubs). In other tournaments, the red chips may simply be rounded
to green chips. Although rounding can change the total amount of money in
play, it is better at preserving the players' relative chip positions.

Winning

The tournament usually continues until only one player remains. The winner
may take all the money, or the top finishers may divide it up according to
a set schedule. In most tournaments, tables are consolidated and seats
redrawn when a certain number of players are eliminated, eventually
resulting in a "final table" of contestants. Sometimes, each table plays
until only one player remains, and then the survivors meet at a final
table; this is called a "shootout". Since the betting stakes are large at
the final table and payout schedules often favor first place, luck plays a
major role and many players prefer cutting a deal to playing the tournament
to its conclusion.

Satellites

A "satellite" is a tournament in which the prize is an entry to another
tournament. Large tournaments like the $10,000 No-limit Hold'em event in
the World Series of Poker generate a lot of satellites. Typically, the
satellite buy-in is around 1/10 the tournament buy-in, so the top 10% of
satellite finishers win a tournament buy-in. Sometimes a satellite will
even have mini-satellites, in which the prize is an entry to the main
satellite. A mini-satellite for the $10,000 event might have a $100 buy-in
and award a $1,000 buyin to a satellite that is awarding a $10,000 buy-in
to the main event.

A satellite format popular in the larger tournaments is the
"super-satellite".  This is a multi-table tournament that awards a number
of entries into the main tournament.  The buy-in to the super can be as
little as 2% of the buy-in to the main tournament, with rebuys usually
permitted.  Depending on the number of entrants and rebuys, the top N
finishers receive an entry into the main tournament.  The strategy late in
a super-satellite can be unusual because of the flat payout structure.

Schedules

Many small (under $100 buy-in) daily or weekly tournaments are listed in
the back pages of Card Player magazine. Be sure to call the casino to see
if they are having the tournament that day, since the magazine is sometimes
out of date.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Q:P20 How does tournament strategy differ from that of regular games?
A:P20 [Ramsey]

Poker tournaments offer a chance to win a large sum of money for a small,
and known, fee and can be an enjoyable alternative to cash poker. However
the strategy required to be successful in a tournament can differ
significantly from that of the equivalent cash game. This section is
therefore offered as general advice to new, or inexperienced, tournament
players.

Tournaments work by eliminating players who lose all their chips. To ensure
that a tournament ends within a reasonable time the blinds/antes are
increased at regular intervals. Your objective in a tournament should
therefore be to accumulate chips whilst minimising the chance of being
eliminated.

Before the Tournament

Before entering a tournament make sure you know the way it is organised; if
it is a 'freezeout' then it will cost you only the initial fee. If the
tournament allows rebuys or add-ons then you need to know the exact rules
and costs of each of your options.

In your first few tournaments it will probably be sensible to forego all
these options, play your best game with your starting chips, and gain as
much experience as possible at minimum cost.

As a general rule it is mathematically sound to rebuy at any stage
providing that you are not out-classed by the opposition (and the cost is
not a major concern). This is true even if all the other players at the
table have far more chips than you.

A good 'rule of thumb' for add-ons is to take the option if you currently
have less than the average number of chips *and*, by taking the add-on you
will then have an above average number of chips. The add-on is less sound
if you have a very small stack or a large stack. Of course the cheaper the
cost of the add-on chips the more attractive the option is regardless of
stack size.

Make sure you know how many prizes there are and whether the tournament is
played to a finish or ends at a fixed time. The correct strategy when you
get down to the last few players or the last few hands can lead to some
plays which would be irrational in any other circumstances.

Also check the blind/ante structure; how it changes and how frequently it
changes during the tournament. The blinds typically double at fixed
intervals of between 20 and 40 minutes. This information is important:
Suppose at some point you have 1800 chips and there are currently blinds of
200 and 400. After you have paid your next blinds you will have 1200 chips
left or 3 times the big blind. If however the blinds are likely to double
before you next post then, after posting, you will have 600 chips left
which is less than the big blind of 800. Clearly the strategy you need to
adopt will vary considerably in these two situations, in the first you can
be reasonably conservative whilst in the latter you have to win a pot
quickly and will need to be aggressive.

The Early Stages

In the early stages of a tournament keep the following points in mind:

If it is a 'freezeout' tournament a lot of players will play tight in the
early stages not wanting to be eliminated quickly. Some players will
however be aggressive looking to build a big stack quickly with a fall back
of a return to the cash games if things don't go to plan. Selective
aggression against the tight players can be effecive in this situation.

If rebuys are allowed the play in the early stages will tend to be a lot
looser. A lot of the players will be prepared, and even expect, to rebuy
and they will play marginal hands aggressively trying to build a big stack
early. Players who are not going to rebuy will play a lot more cautiously.

At the start of a tournament the cost of the blinds will be relatively low
in respect of the average stack size and will become even lower if rebuys
are allowed. This allows you to play much more marginal hands than normal.
It is worth risking a small part of your stack (say 5% or less) to see the
flop with small pairs, suited connectors and other marginal hands to have
the chance to double your stack if you hit big on the flop.

By the same token it can be right to play good hands relatively
conservatively preflop. If you hold AK in late position and there are
several callers it is often better just to flat call. You know if you raise
you will not get the other players to fold. By flat calling you minimise
your loss if the flop is not to your liking and you have the benefit of
disguise if you hit the flop big.

If you are by nature an aggressive player then use the early stages to try
and build a substantial stack. This risks early elimination but when
successful it will give you sufficient chips to survive the first few blind
increases even if the cards turn against you.

If your natural game is passive or middle of the road then the best
strategy is to try for a steady accumulation of chips. Play looser than
normal preflop providing that the cost is small in relation to your stack
but play slightly tighter than normal post-flop. This generally means not
putting in that extra bet or raise when you think, but are not sure, that
you are ahead - the saving of a bet when you lose the pot is worth more to
you than the extra bet you could potentially win.

Finally in the early stages do not be concerned with eliminating other
players. You are too far from the prize list to worry about how many
players are left. It is more important to concentrate on keeping your stack
in good condition. For example a player raises and everyone else folds. You
hold T9s and have a big stack. Your opponent is almost allin so the cost to
you even if you lose the pot is small. Even so, fold. Your opponent has
almost certainly a better starting hand than yours and even if you win it
will not increase your stack by much. Having made a good start you need to
be careful not to bleed chips unnecessarily.

The Middle/Late Stages

In the middle and later stages of a tournament the structure of the game
gradually changes and the strategy necessary changes too:

As the blinds increase they represent an increasing percentage of the
average stack. Winning the blinds therefore becomes more significant and
the first player into the pot will normally enter with a raise rather than
a flat call.

The converse of this is that it now costs a significant proportion of the
average stack to call a raise. Therefore the quality of hand needed to call
a raise increases. The result of this is that a lot of hands go raise, all
fold and you can go several hands without even seeing a flop.

As players are eliminated the game in the middle/late stages will be played
most of the time with less than a full table. This, and the increasing
blinds, means that unless a players is winning hands at regular intervals
even a big stack can be quickly depleted. To counter this all players,
regardless of their normal style, have to play very aggressively.

So the general strategy in the middle/late stages is to increasingly loosen
the requirements for an opening raise and to tighten up the requirements
for calling. Your objective should be to win, on average, the blinds once
per round. Each time you win the blinds you can, in effect, survive one
further round of hands.... and each round of hands you survive increases
your chance of hitting a premium hand and an opportunity to double your
stack.

A player who has an average or large stack commands respect when they raise
and will often win the blinds unopposed. A player with a small stack will
be called much more frequently because they do not have sufficient chips to
seriously damage the larger stacks. There is, therefore, a critical stack
size and it is worth a player taking extra risks to try and avoid falling
below that point. As a rule of thumb this critical size is about 4 big bets
in a limit game and about 6 times the big blind in pot and no-limit.

If your stack does fall below the critical level then a change of strategy
is required. It is no longer sensible to raise with marginal hands because
you expect to be called. So raise if you are lucky enough to hit a premium
hand but otherwise limp in to a pot with any reasonable hand. If there is
no raise then you can judge the flop and fold if absolutely necessary. If
you limp into a pot and it is then raised be prepared to put all your chips
in and keep your fingers crossed. If there is a raise in front of you then
you should also loosen your calling requirements when you are very short of
chips. A hand such as Ax or a low pair offers a reasonable chance of
doubling your stack and you can't afford to wait for a better opportunity.

If you have a big stack (e.g. twice the average or more) then you are in a
strong position but this can change rapidly. A big stack allows you to play
more conservatively and wait that bit longer for better hands before
raising however the blinds will soon eat into even a large stack so you
have to remain aggressive. Normally it will pay to be selectively
aggressive, that is be prepared to mix it with the smaller stacks but keep
out of the way of the other large stacks as they can do you serious damage.

Experienced tournament players with large stacks are likely to call a raise
by a short stack even if they have only a moderate or poor hand. They are
risking losing a few chips for the chance of moving one place closer to the
prize money. There may even be several callers with good stacks and poor
hands. It will not be unusual for these players to check down the hand once
the short stack is all-in to maximise the chance of eliminating the all-in
player.

Whilst this is good tournament strategy it is probably best in your first
few tournaments to call a raise only with a very good hand and ignore
whether the raiser has many or few chips. However if you do get head to
head with a player who is almost all-in you should force the other player
to commit their last few chips at the first opportunity; certainly if you
would call if they bet then you must bet to prevent them checking. It is a
cardinal error to let a player off the hook because no matter how few chips
a player has left they can bounce back to being chip leader within a few
hands if they get the run of the cards!

As the blinds rise a raise or a call starts to take a significant
proportion of the average stack. The effect of this is that most players
will continue to play aggressively on the flop if they have even a small
part of it and quite often they will play aggressively even if the flop
misses them completely (ie bluff). You will have to respond in kind
especially if conceding the pot would leave you with a stack below the
critical level. For example you hold AsQd, raise and are called by the big
blind. The flop is Jh 8h 2c and the big blind bets. Even though this flop
does nothing for you you should call unless you are in a strong chip
position. The big blind is as likely to be on a draw or bluffing as he is
to have a genuine hand.

The Final Stage

If all goes well you will survive to the point where you are down to the
last few players and almost in the prize money.

At this stage the blinds will be so high that virtually all the players
left will have stacks at or below the critical size. In addition you will
be playing the game increasingly short-handed which means that you can see
fewer and fewer hands before your stack is anted away.

You need at this stage to know exactly how near the prize money you are and
how many chips each of your opponents has. If you have an average or large
stack the correct strategy is still to be ultra aggressive in raising but
conservative in calling. However when you have fewer than average chips it
can be right to adopt a tighter strategy! There are two reasons why this
may be so:

Suppose there are 5 players left and there are prizes for the first 4 only.
If the player under the gun does not have enough chips to cover the big
blind next hand then you will be probably correct to fold any non-premium
hand and hope that utg doesn't get lucky. In general this extends to
playing tight if you can survive longer than one or more of the other
players left in the game. This will force them to try and win a pot before
you have to - if they lose you are one further notch up the ladder whilst
if they win you still have a chance to also win a pot and be back in the
same relative position to them.

Providing that you have enough chips to see the next few hands then playing
tight also avoids the chance of immediate elimination and gives the other
players a chance to eliminate each other or to agree to make a deal, either
of which is to your advantage.

In most tournaments the last few players are allowed to agree a deal
sharing the prize fund in different proportions to that originally
envisioned. A lot of tournaments will end in this way because regardless of
how big a lead the chip leader has the blinds are so high that who wins
will be more a matter of luck than skill or weight of chips.

There are typically three types of deal:

  1. A saver is agreed for all those players still in who subsequently get
     eliminated outside the original prize scale. For example if there are
     6 players left and only 4 prizes then the players may agree that the
     next 2 players eliminated will receive $100 each and the prize for the
     eventual winner will be reduced by $200. The game then continues.
  2. The whole of the prize fund is distributed amongst the remaining
     players and the game is ended at this point. The amount each player
     receives will be related to the number of chips they currently have
     but the exact amount will be subject to negotiation.
  3. Part of the prize fund is distributed amongst the remaining players
     and then the game continues; normally on the basis of the winner takes
     all of the remaining prize money (and the trophy if any).

If you are going to split the prize money on the basis of chips held then
it is probably easiest to let the experienced players do the initial
negotiating. They will ask if you would be happy to accept $x and it is
then up to you to accept or reject the offer. If you are one of the chip
leaders then you should expect to receive less than your chips are worth
whereas if you have less chips than average you should insist on receiving
more than their face value. For example with 5 players left if you have 10%
of the chips you might expect 15% of the prize fund; if you have 40% of the
chips you might have to settle for 30-35% of the money.

For new tournament players the important point to bear in mind is that any
deal requires the explicit agreement of *all* the remaining players. If you
do not like the proposed deal you do not have to accept it simply ask the
dealer to carry on. If things continue to go your way you will end up with
all the chips and the bulk of the prize money. Remember however that in
these final stages luck is more important than skill and a sensible deal
leaves everybody happy.

[Several books have been written on the subject of poker tournaments, but
none has received universal praise from rec.gamblers. Jay Sipelstein's
reviews of McEvoy's "Tournament Poker" and Buntjer's "The Secret To Winning
Big In Tournament Poker" are in the Poker Book Review Archive at
http://www.universe.digex.net/~kimberg/reviews.html. --ed.]

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Q:P21 What is the World Series of Poker? When is it?
A:P21 [Jim Albrecht]

The World Series of Poker is a yearly series of poker tournaments hosted by
Binion's Horseshoe Casino in Las Vegas. The official WSoP home page is at
http://www.conjelco.com/wsop.html.

Q: What is the 1998 WSoP schedule?

Fri 4/17   Satellites Begin
Tue 4/21   Hold'em (Limit)       $2000
Wed 4/22   Razz                  $1500
Thu 4/23   Omaha (Limit)         $1500
Fri 4/24   Stud (limit)          $1500
Sat 4/25   Omaha (PL) (RB)       $1500
Sun 4/26   Stud H/L              $1500
Mon 4/27   Hold'em (NL)          $2000
Tue 4/28   Omaha H/L             $2000
Wed 4/29   Hold'em (PL)          $2000
Thu 4/30   Stud (Limit)          $2500
Fri 5/1    Omaha (PL) (RB)       $2500
Sat 5/2    Stud H/L              $2500
Sun 5/3    Hold'em (Limit)       $3000
Mon 5/4    Omaha H/L             $3000
Tue 5/5    Hold'em (PL)          $3000
Wed 5/6    2-7 Draw (NL) (RB)    $5000
Thu 5/7    Hold'em (NL)          $3000
Fri 5/8    Stud (Limit)          $5000
Sat 5/9    Hold'em (Limit)       $5000
Sun 5/10   Women's Stud (Limit)  $1000
Mon 5/11-5/14  Hold'em (NL)      $10000

Q: How do the satellites work? [Jim Albrecht, 1996]

Those satellites are for all events. Actually, they are to win "tournament
buy-in chips" worth $500 towards a buy-in to any event. You could for
example, win a hold'em satellite and receive 3 chip and $60 in cash. This
has a value of $1,560 and may be used as a buy-in for any $1,560 event. The
chips can be added up to play in a larger event, or can be sold to you
friends at discount. They are usually obtainable for $480. In the "old
days", or PC (pre-chip) days, you received a receipt and HAD to play in the
specific tournament that matched the satellite you won. Now you have all
kinds of options. Just think of them as tournament stock certificates.
These chips are without question the best invention of the 90's for
tournament poker (I would say this even if it wasn't my idea)...... :)

Q: What about the satellites for the $10,000 event?  [Jim Albrecht, 1996]

Supers start on Monday night and run nightly throughout the tournament
dates. You win a piece of paper with your name on it (WOW!) This piece of
paper (a receipt) allows you to play in the $10,000 event and win up to
$1,000,000. Disclaimer: Winning is not guaranteed. This part is up to you.

The first Super you win is non-transferable, non-negotiable, and must be
played by YOU. This will be clearly stamped on your receipt. If you win a
second Super you will be paid in Buy-in chips (twenty $500 chips). You may
do as you please with these. Stake a friend, play in several events
yourself or sell to the highest bidder. Best place for a sale: The line for
sign-up on the day of the event. Early sales (first week of the tournament)
can fetch as low as $9,500. The day of the event you should be able to get
$9,900.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Q:P22 What the hell is Rumple Mintz?
A:P22 [Michael Maurer]

Rumple Mintz is the official rec.gambling spelling of a brand of 100 proof
peppermint schnapps called Rumple Minze, imported from the Scharlachberg
Distillery in Germany. Best served shaken over ice for five seconds, then
strained into a short glass. It is the official drink of rec.gambler poker
players everywhere, and is known to increase poker skill dramatically.
Legend has it that one rec.gambler won $4000 in a 50-100 Hold'em game while
under its spell, lived to tell the tale in a trip report, and assured its
eternal fame.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Q:P23 What is a burn card and why is it dealt?
A:P23 [Michael Maurer]

A burn card is a card dealt face down at the beginning of a round, before
any other cards are dealt. This card is not used in the play of the hand.
The main reason for this custom is to guard against marked cards. If the
cards are marked, a player who can read the backs will know what the top
card on the deck is. In a flop-game like Hold'em or Omaha, knowledge of the
next board card is extremely profitable. Knowledge of which card it will
*not* be is slightly useful, but much less so.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Q:P24 What happens if there aren't enough cards in the deck to deal the
final card in 7-card stud?
A:P24 [Michael Maurer]

The burn cards will be shuffled into the remaining deck. If there are still
not enough cards, a single community card will be dealt face-up and used by
all the players.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Q:P25 What is the difference between a shill and a proposition player? What
skills are needed to be one?
A:P25 [John Murphy]

A shill is paid by the house at an hourly rate, and plays with house money.
A prop is paid by the house and plays with his own money. Many states
require cardrooms to identify house players if asked, but may not require
them to do so otherwise. Shills and props are directed to games by the
house. This means that they may be constantly shifted to tougher games, as
non-house players boot them out of seats in juicy games. The most important
skill for a prop is to be able to excel in all games, since they may be
called to play any game that the house offers, against players who
specialize in that game. Also, be they must be prepared to sit and wait if
all games are full.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Q:P26 What is the Dead Man's Hand?
A:P26 [Stephen Landrum, Michael Maurer]

Legend holds that Wild Bill Hickok was shot to death during a poker game in
Deadwood, South Dakota, and that the hand he held was two pair, black aces
and black eights. On that most people agree. The fifth card is not known
for certain. In order of credibility, the following kickers have been
suggested:

Five of Diamonds
     The actual card is supposedly on display in Deadwood, previously on
     display at the Stardust in Las Vegas.
Nine of Diamonds
     Listed below in the glossary, this card was supposedly reported by
     first hand accounts, and is used in a recreation in Deadwood.
Queen of Clubs
     On display at Ripley's Believe it or Not.
King of Spades
     Appeared in the 1936 movie The Plainsman with Gary Cooper as Hickok.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Q:P27 What are the Las Vegas poker room phone numbers?
A:P27 [Dave Marshall, June 1994]

Here's a list of all the poker rooms in Las Vegas (Santa Fe, Boomtown, and
Henderson poker rooms not included) with addresses and the *direct* phone
number of the poker room. In one or two cases, the poker room doesn't have
a direct line, so the main casino line is used instead. See bottom for the
two 800 numbers I know of.

Aladdin Hotel & Casino                      3667 S Las Vegas Blvd    736-0329
Binion's Horseshoe Hotel & Casino           128 Fremont Street       366-7397
Circus Circus Hotel-Casino                  2880 S Las Vegas Blvd    734-0410
Continental Hotel & Casino                  4100 Paradise Road       737-5555
El Cortez Hotel                             600 Fremont Street       385-5200
Excalibur Hotel-Casino                      3850 S Las Vegas Blvd    597-7625
Flamingo Hilton                             3555 S Las Vegas Blvd    733-3485
Fremont Hotel                               200 Fremont Street       385-3232
Gold Coast Hotel & Casino                   4000 W Flamingo Road     367-7111
Hacienda Hotel & Casino                     3950 S Las Vegas Blvd    739-8911
Harrah's Las Vegas                          3475 S Las Vegas Blvd    369-5234
Imperial Palace Hotel & Casino              3535 S Las Vegas Blvd    731-3311
Jackie Gaughan's Plaza Hotel & Casino       1 S Main Street          386-2249
Las Vegas Hilton                            3000 Paradise Road       732-5995
Luxor Hotel And Casino                      3900 S Las Vegas Blvd    262-4210
MGM Grand Hotel                             3799 S Las Vegas Blvd    891-7434
The Mirage Hotel And Casino                 3400 S Las Vegas Blvd    791-7290
Palace Station Hotel & Casino               2411 W Sahara Avenue     367-2453
Rio Suite Hotel & Casino                    3700 W Flamingo Road     252-7777
Riviera Hotel & Casino                      2901 S Las Vegas Blvd    794-9255
Sahara Hotel                                2535 S Las Vegas Blvd    737-2317
Sam's Town Hotel & Gambling Hall            5111 Boulder Highway     454-8092
Sands Hotel & Casino                        3355 S Las Vegas Blvd    733-5000
Hotel San Remo                              115 East Tropicana       739-9000
Sheraton Desert Inn                         3145 S Las Vegas Blvd    733-4343
Showboat Hotel & Casino                     2800 Fremont Street      385-9151
Silver City Casino                          3001 S Las Vegas Blvd    732-4152
Stardust Hotel & Casino                     3000 S Las Vegas Blvd    732-6513
Treasure Island at The Mirage               3300 S Las Vegas Blvd    894-7291
Tropicana Resort And Casino                 3801 S Las Vegas Blvd    739-2312

800 Poker Room Numbers:
Binion's : 1-800-93-POKER
MGM Grand: 1-800-94-POKER

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Q:P28 [NEW]What poker games are spread in certain Las Vegas casinos?
A:P28 [Joel Trammell, June 1997]

Sometime around June 1997, the following casinos were spreading the poker
games listed:

ALADDIN HOTEL (702)736-0329
7-card stud: $1-4, Hold'em: $1-4.

BINION'S HORSESHOE (702)366-7397, (800) 93-POKER
7- card stud: $1- 5, Hold'em: $1-4-8, $4-8, $10-20, $15-30, Omaha High:
$4-8, Omaha Hi-Lo (8 or better) $4-8. 18 tables.

BOULDER STATION (702)432-7777

CIRCUS CIRCUS (702)734-0410

EXCALIBUR (702)597-7625
7 card stud: $1-5, Hold'em: $1-2 (Novice Table), $2-6, 2-6-12.

FLAMINGO HILTON (702) 733-3485
7-card stud: $1-4, Hold'em: $1-4-8. 6 tables.

GOLD COAST (702) 367-7111
7-card stud: $1-4, Hold'em: $1-4-8-8, Omaha: $1-4-8-8. 6 tables.

HARRAH'S (702) 369-5234
7-card stud: $1-5, Hold'em: 1-4-8-8. 9-10 Tables.  Well run room, $5 comps
are for the asking. Lots O' granite except on weekends.

LUXOR (702) 262-4210

MGM GRAND (702) 891-7434, (800) 94-POKER
7-card stud $1-5, $5-10, $10-20, Hold'em $1-4-8-8, Omaha, higher limits
weekends.

MIRAGE (702) 791-7290
7-card stud: $1-5 thru $400-800, Hold'em: $3-6 thru $400-800: no limit, pot
limit, Omaha: $4-8 thru pot limit: hi-lo split (8 or better): $15-30 thru
$400-800: no limit razz $15-30 thru $400-800. 31 tables.

MONTE CARLO (702) 730-7777
7-card stud: $1-4, $4-8, Hold'em: $1-4-8-8. 8 tables.

ORLEANS (702) 365-7111
7-card stud: $1-5, Holdem: $2-4-8, $3-6-12, and sometimes $10-20,
Omaha:$4-8

PALACE STATION (702) 367-2453
7-card stud: $1-2, $l-4, Hold'em: $2-4, 1-4-8-8, Hi-Lo Split: $1-3-6-6. 9
tables.

RIO (702) 252-7777
7-card stud: $1-4, Hold'em: $1-4-8-8. 6 tables.

RIVIERA (702) 794-9255
7-card stud: $1-4-8, Hold'em: $1-4-8, hi-lo split: $l-5,3-6.

SAHARA (702) 737-2317
7-card stud: $1-4 ,1-4-8, 2-6, 3-6, 5-10, Hold'em: $1-4-8; hi-lo split:
$3-6, 5-10, beginners poker;$1-4. 18 tables.

SAMS TOWN (702) 454-8092
7-card stud: $1-4, Hold'em: $1-4-8, Omaha: $1-3, $2-4, $3-6. 10 tables.

SHOWBOAT (702) 385-9151
7-card stud: $1-4, Hold'em: $1-4-8.

STARDUST (702) 732-6513
7-card stud: $1-5, Hold'em: $3-6.

SUNSET STATION (702) 547-7777

TEXAS STATION (702) 631-1000

THE PLAZA (702) 386-2249
7-card stud: $1-3, Hold'em: $1-3-6, Omaha hi-lo split: $3-6, pan: 50 cents
and up, pineapple hold'em hi-lo split: $1-4-8.

TROPICANA (702) 739-2312
7-card stud: $1-4, 1-4-8, 1-5-10, Hold'em: $1-4-8-8.
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Q:P29 What do all these poker terms mean?
A:P29 [Michael Maurer]

Three good poker glossaries are available on the net:
* John Hallyburton's compendium, compiled with the help of several
rec.gamblers, is at http://www.conjelco.com/faq/rgpglossary.html.
* Lee Jones' glossary from the popular book "Winning Low-Limit Holdem" is
at http://www.conjelco.com/pokglossary.html.
* Dan Kimberg's glossary, complete with usage examples and hyperlinks, is
at http://www.universe.digex.net/~kimberg/pokerdict.html.

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