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                         NORFOLK AND NORWICH TERRIERS
                                       
   
   
Authors

   George Back and Diane McManus, gback@teleport.com.
   
   Copyright 1991-1995 George Back and Diane McManus, Sirius*Terriers,
   117 Rollingwood Drive, Kelso, WA 98626, Phone (360) 423-3622 All
   rights reserved. However, you are encouraged to copy and distribute
   this article for non-commercial use with the following restrictions:
   You may not modify the article in any way. You must include the entire
   article including the copyright notice. You may not charge any fee for
   use, copying, nor distribution of the product with the following
   exceptions: Non-profit organizations may charge a nominal fee (not to
   exceed $5.00) until and unless notified by the authors this is not the
   case.
   
Table of Contents

     * General Appearance
          + What do they look like?
          + What do you mean when you say "the Standard for these dogs"?
          + Are the ears the only difference between NW and NF?
          + Do they have a hard coat or a soft coat?
     * Characteristics and Temperament
          + What can I expect if I adopt one of these dogs?
          + Who wouldn't do well with one of these dogs?
     * Frequently Asked Questions
          + Are they good with children, other dogs and other pets?
          + What about exercise requirements?
          + Are they noisy?
          + What about having my dog debarked?
          + Do they make good apartment pets?
          + What colors do they come in?
          + What sex makes the best pet?
          + Are they easy to train?
          + Are they easy to housetrain?
          + Does this breed require lots of grooming?
          + Do they shed?
     * History
          + Where did these breeds come from originally?
     * What about the NF/NW Puppy?
          + Any special considerations before adopting a PUPPY of this
            breed?
     * Breed Rescue
     * Health Issues
          + Periodontal Disease
          + Vaccinations: Leptospirosis Reaction
     * Resources
          + Books
          + Clubs
          + Online resources
     * Disclaimer
       
   
     _________________________________________________________________
   
General Appearance

   What do they look like?
   
     Norwich have pointed ears that stand straight up; Norfolk ears fold
     down. The Norwich and Norfolk are the smallest of the AKC terrier
     group. The standards calls for weights from 11 to 12 pounds, but
     they range in weight from 10 to 18 pounds and 90% weigh within a
     half a pound of 13 pounds when at their proper weight. The tail is
     usually medium docked. The breeds have a desired height of 9 to 10
     inches at the shoulders (90% of them will be within a quarter inch
     of the desired height) and the body should be short and compact with
     straight legs and good bone. 
     
   What do you mean when you say "the Standard for these dogs"?
   
     We believe the AKC registry to be one of the most accurate and
     widely accepted of canine registries. An advantage of an AKC
     Registration is found in its acceptance by many other registries and
     clubs in the US and even other countries enabling registration with
     them, also. In the USA, when one speaks of "The Standard" for a
     Norfolk/ Norwich Terrier one usually refers to the current standard
     approved by the American Kennel Club (AKC). For complete copies of
     the current AKC standard, contact the Norfolk and Norwich Terrier
     Club of America, as listed elsewhere in this FAQ, or consult the
     AKC's publication The Complete Dog Book at your local library.
     
     However, standards for the Norfolk and Norwich Terriers vary with
     the club or association that defines the standard. For example, in
     one of the kennel clubs in Germany, any dog (of either breed) would
     be faulted if they were missing premolars or had a level bite, and
     could not become a champion under that kennel club. In the United
     States, the American Kennel Club (AKC) doesn't list this as a fault,
     hence an AKC Champion may have missing teeth and a level bite (as
     actually was the case of a couple "#1 Norfolk Male Champions" in
     recent years).
     
     There are several kennel clubs in the United States, and most
     countries have at least one or two. They all have their own
     standards for judging the various breeds they recognize -- even if
     they don't generate the standard themselves. For example, the IABKCA
     states that the dog shall be judged by the breed standard
     originating in the club the judge comes from, hence a judge from
     Germany doesn't have to concern himself with retraining himself to
     the AKC standard when he's judging in the United States, he judges
     by the German club's standard. Similarly a Canadian judge judges by
     the Canadian club's standard and an AKC judge judges by the AKC's
     standard.
     
     Even within a certain club, breed standards are not written in
     stone, but vary with time. The Norfolk and Norwich terriers in the
     USA were the same breed, defined by the same standard until 1979; in
     1981 new standards, which are still current, were approved
     differentiating the breeds. Recently the AKC standard for the
     Labrador was given a big overhaul to the dismay of those breeders
     who had been "breeding to the standard". Hence, it proves wise for
     the breeder to look not only at what is written and said, but also
     what is done and winning. Presently the most improvement needed to
     the Norfolk and Norwich breeds is with respect to indentation and
     stronger rears. We also observe in the NF/NW breed trends to move
     away from the current standard in two areas. The first is the
     addition of more furnishings. The second is addition of bone
     resulting in escalation in weight. 
     
   Are the ears the only difference between NW and NF?
   
     According to the Standards, there are three concrete differences:
    1. The Norfolk ears drop down, while the Norwich ears stand up.
    2. The Norfolk has a slightly longer back than a Norwich.
    3. The Norfolk is never supposed to be aggressive.
       
     There may be more differences, but that depends on how you yourself
     look at it. Here's something you can try: Take copies of the two
     (current) (AKC) Standards and place them side by side. With a yellow
     marker mark out what is identical in each standard. Next, mark out
     what isn't identical but pretty much means the same thing. For
     instance if one says "Skull wide, slightly rounded" and the other
     says "skull is broad and slightly rounded" you might want to mark
     those two out. When we finish this exercise we're left with the
     three differences above. 
     
   Do they have a hard coat or a soft coat?
   
     For both the coat is a "double coat", with dense soft undercoat and
     a hard wiry outer coat (not as hard as a Scotties) which feels quite
     nice to the fingers when scratching or rubbing. These weather
     resistant coats are generally maintained by tidying with fingers,
     brush and comb. Some areas such as the foot pads require scissoring
     or clipping.
     
   
     _________________________________________________________________
   
Characteristics and Temperament

   What can I expect if I adopt one of these dogs?
   
     Both of these breeds of long-lived, genetically-clean, hearty,
     easy-keepers are natural lovers. They do well with children and
     other pets. They yearn for the companionship of their human family
     and it is essential they are allowed to sleep at night with at least
     one human member of the family. They would not be happy nor survive
     long if kept as an "outdoor" dog. They are always ready for
     affection when their owner offers it, glad to hop up on a lap for
     kisses and scratches. They will watch with interest and curiosity
     whatever activity their owner is engaged in (especially if it
     involves food), often following the family members from room to
     room, making sure everyone's O.K. Natural watchdogs, they will
     always announce anyone approaching your home. When your guest is
     invited in, however, barking is replaced by efforts to get pets and
     attention from the new arrival. Natural friendliness and their small
     size prevents their being effective as guard dogs. While a few are
     aloof to strangers, most would gladly go home with them. As most
     people find these dogs to be quite likable and desirable, attention
     should be given to preventing your pet from being stolen. They are
     naturally curious, and given opportunity will wander. A locked gate
     is essential and they should never be allowed off lead except in a
     reasonably secure area they cannot escape from.
     
     The Norfolk and Norwich are most concerned they have their masters
     approval and are easier to train than most terriers. They are also
     much more dependent on humans for attention. During those moments a
     Norfolk or Norwich is not receiving attention from a human in the
     form of playing, scratching, or just sitting on a lap, they are
     wishing they were. While, for instance, a Scottish Terrier can amuse
     himself when his owners are too busy -- a Scottie may toss a ball in
     the air himself and then go fetch it when his owner doesn't have
     time to play -- the Norfolk or Norwich will more tend to sit by the
     ball and look at his owner. During those times you can't pay
     attention you may find it helpful to leave on the television which
     they seem to enjoy watching. 
     
   Who wouldn't do well with one of these dogs?
   
     You may NOT want to adopt a dog of this breed if you:
     * don't want a dog that lives in the house and sleeps on the foot of
       the bed
     * want a dog you can trust to be off lead and not run away never to
       be seen again
     * have a lawn that looks like a putting green
     * don't want a dog that digs in your flower beds
     * have oriental rugs, white carpet or white furniture
     * want an adult, non-neutered male who won't pee all over your house
       for fifteen years or longer
     * want a dog that never barks
     * want a dog that doesn't require a lot of training to not bark when
       your neighbor (or his dog, cat, or horse) walks out into plain
       view of the dog into his yard which adjoins yours
     * want a dog that doesn't require a lot of training to not bark when
       a car has pulled into your driveway or someone is walking up to
       your door
     * want a dog that doesn't want very much to kiss your face and mouth
     * you don't have time to brush your dog's teeth weekly or don't want
       to have the vet do a thorough teeth cleaning every six months
     * don't have your heart set on this breed -- why not adopt a mixed
       breed at the shelter and save a life instead?
       
   
     _________________________________________________________________
   
Frequently Asked Questions

   Are they good with children, other dogs and other pets?
   
     Natural lovers, the Norwich and Norfolk are excellent family dogs,
     doing well with children, other dogs, and cats, but will hunt
     rodents, snakes and birds. Between the Norwich and Norfolk in the
     United States, you may find the Norfolk is the more mellow of the
     two; the requirement it never be aggressive has applied to the
     Norfolk standard since 1981. The late Joan Read referred to the
     sweet-dispositioned Norfolk as the "Labrador" of terriers. 
     
   What about exercise requirements?
   
     These small active dogs do require exercise, but their small size
     and playful disposition allows you to accomplish this with games
     such as fetch or chase-the-toy-on-the-end-of-the-string that can be
     accomplished even indoors. A game ours love is chasing a plastic
     empty pop bottle (with a little kibble put in it for a rattling
     sound) on the end of a fishing pole swung in large circles and
     figure-eight patterns. This provides a vigorous exercise when done
     out of doors and is an excellent aerobic conditioner. When weather
     doesn't permit the outdoor version, it is modified to an indoor
     version where the dogs are put more to jumping up and down for the
     bottle, pursuing it to the top of the recliner or coach and back
     down to the floor. Another version which they like when we're busy,
     and one of the few games they will pursue on their own, is if we
     attach the pop bottle, just slightly out of reach, to a cotton rope
     and then to a bungie cord hanging from a ceiling hook.
     
   Are they noisy?
   
     Natural watchdogs, they will always announce anyone approaching your
     home. When your guest is invited in, however, barking is replaced by
     efforts to get pets and attention from the new arrival. However,
     they will also bark when your neighbor walks out in his yard which
     adjoins yours. This may subside on its own with familiarity and it
     may cease entirely with training. However, if you are not there to
     quiet your pet the barking may be annoying to your neighbors.
     
   What about having my dog debarked?
   
     If barking is annoying your neighbors, or you are planning on
     traveling with your dog and staying in hotels, you may wish to have
     your vet debark your dog. He will still bark but it will be much
     quieter. We have noticed no ill effects from the operation on the
     dogs we have had debarked, but you should ask your vet if he knows
     of any distress it could cause your dog. 
     
   Do they make good apartment pets?
   
     The Norfolk or Norwich both make excellent apartment pets. Their
     goal in life is to be with their owner, be it in a hotel room or a
     tent or a car, be it inside, outside, upstairs, downstairs, in the
     bathroom, on the coach or in bed. Their exercise requirements are
     easily met in a small space. However, if thin walls or frequent
     passing of other residents cause your dog to bark you may wish to
     have him debarked unless you are usually home to quiet him. Also,
     males should be neutered not later than four months age to avoid a
     marking problem. 
     
   What colors do they come in?
   
     The Norfolk and Norwich colors are one of the shades of grain, from
     dark amber fields to light wheat. referred to as "red",
     "red-wheaten", and "wheaten". One of these shades of grain may be
     interspersed with black hairs; this is known as "grizzle". Also, a
     saddle of black may ride on top of one of these shades of grain;
     this is known as a "black and tan". Some black and tan's tend to
     "grizzle out" or lose their black saddle and change to grizzle in
     later years. Also, in any color the coat may darken or lighten
     becoming more red or wheaten either seasonally or constantly as the
     dog matures. White marks are not desirable but frequently occur on
     the Norwich chest. 
     
   What sex makes the best pet?
   
     We agree with Joan Read that males make the best pets. They are more
     affectionate, even tempered and loyal. However, males should be
     neutered not later than four months age to avoid a marking problem. 
     
   Are they easy to train?
   
     The Norfolk and Norwich are most concerned they have their masters
     approval and are easier to train than most terriers (compared with a
     Scottie they're a piece of cake). However, they should never be
     allowed off lead (except in a reasonably secure area they cannot
     escape from) -- they WILL run away never to be seen again. 
     
   Are they easy to housetrain?
   
     People we know have been successful when they diligently applied the
     techniques in How to Housebreak Your Dog in 7 Days by Shirlee
     Kalstone; Bantam Books ISBN 0-553-34119-7 (pbk.). However, MALES
     SHOULD BE NEUTERED NOT LATER THAN FOUR MONTHS AGE TO AVOID A MARKING
     PROBLEM. 
     
   Does this breed require lots of grooming?
   
     Grooming the Norwich and Norfolk is fairly easy. Daily brushing is
     ideal, but weekly brushing will suffice. Clipping the nails should
     be done every week or two. Brushing and scaling the teeth should be
     done weekly, and your vet should thoroughly clean the teeth twice a
     year. These dogs are naturally fastidious as cats, self-grooming and
     without offensive odor; baths are seldom if ever needed--twice a
     year at most. The coat should be stripped by hand about twice a year
     but a few areas such as the bottoms of the feet require scissoring
     or clipping. Grooming is best done at home by the owner, not at a
     groomer's shop. 
     
   Do they shed?
   
     We know of people who have had problems living with dogs that shed
     in the past who do very well with these breeds. They do not shed
     like regular dogs if you strip the coat by hand. The hair stays in
     and about twice a year the old coat should be pulled out with the
     fingers. This is called hand stripping. The coats of the Norfolk and
     Norwich "blow" more thoroughly than some other terrier breeds, such
     as the Scotty, so hand stripping is not difficult to do and takes a
     couple of hours. When the coat is "blown" and ready to strip the dog
     may find the stripping generally enjoyable as the old coat becomes
     itchy.
     
   
     _________________________________________________________________
   
History

   Where did these breeds come from originally?
   
     Norfolk and Norwich Terriers originated in England; from there they
     were exported to the world. Their early history is not well
     documented but fades into the ancestors from which all the terrier
     breeds of Britain came: working vermin destroyers for the most part,
     bred to be hunters, and as such to be fearless, hardy, and small
     enough to go to ground after quarry which included everything from
     vermin to fox and badger. It is believed the foundation of today's
     Norfolk and Norwich were the small red terriers popular with
     students at Cambridge around the 1850's.
     
     The Norfolk and Norwich used to be known as Norwich Drop Ear and
     Norwich Prick Ear. The Norwich Drop Ear is today known as the
     Norfolk Terrier, the Norwich Prick Ear is now the Norwich Terrier.
     The bloodlines are now separate; even prior to the breed being
     divided drop and prick eared Norwich were bred separately. We have
     heard of no drop ears still occurring in Norwich litters and vice
     versa; if this happens it is very rare. The breeds are divided in
     other countries, also, including England and Germany. It was in 1979
     when the AKC divided the breeds in the United States.
     
   
     _________________________________________________________________
   
What about the NF/NW Puppy?

   Any special considerations before adopting a PUPPY of this breed?
   
     When you adopt a puppy, you're the next in line after the breeder to
     make sure the dog will enjoy a full and happy life. There are
     certain steps you should take. In addition to those covered so well
     in so many other sources, i.e. veterinary care, good nutrition,
     love, etc. . Here are a few less noted items to consider:
     * Register your dog. Right or wrong, many people value registered
       dogs more than unregistered dogs. So, if you buy a puppy and the
       breeder gives you the application for registration, meaning it
       isn't registered yet, please register it promptly. If you
       procrastinate and forget and a year later you find the application
       in the back of a drawer, it's too late -- AKC rules. You may not
       always be around and your dog may very well outlive you; the
       registration you didn't get for the dog could have helped to have
       protected it for the rest of its life.
     * The ears, teeth, foot, musculoskeletal system and temperament
       require the owner's time and attention for proper development in
       the Norfolk or Norwich puppy. Just as you would provide braces for
       your children's teeth if they needed them and you were able to
       afford them, there are steps you should take to help ensure that
       your adopted puppy will develop properly into an attractive,
       healthy, and well tempered adult. Although some of these items are
       mostly cosmetic concerns, realize again you may not always be
       around to love your dog; if you die in a wreck the dog's going to
       have a better chance to find someone else to love him if he's a
       friendly and healthy dog. These items include:
          + Clip the nails once a week for proper foot development. If
            the nails are allowed to grow very long, the feet deform and
            spread larger than the "little cat feet" which are desired in
            these breeds. To prevent this from happening clip the puppy's
            nails every week. This allows you to take off only the tips
            so you don't hurt him, but still keep the nails quite short.
          + Watch for retained baby teeth which can cause a bad bite.
            After the baby incisors fall out and the adult incisors come
            in, watch for the adult canines coming in. If the baby
            canines aren't loosening, your vet will need to pull them or
            the dog's bite can get all messed up. Ask your vet to go
            light on the anesthesia; these breeds don't need much.
            Sometimes baby incisors don't loosen either, but you can pull
            them at home like you would on a child.
          + Setting ears properly. You may need to work with an ear set
            for up to six months of age until it gets set right. The best
            method is by properly folding in the correct position and
            massaging daily as needed to attain the proper set. There are
            other methods which involve taping and gluing. The taping
            method for the prick ears of the Norwich is the same as that
            for the Cairn and is presented in The New Complete Cairn
            Terrier, 2nd Ed by John T. Marvin. Joan Read's The Norfolk
            Terrier shows a taping method for the dropped ears of the
            Norfolk. Another source of information you might try would be
            your breeder, or any local breeder or handler of dogs with
            similar earsets to those you're trying to attain. For
            example, a local Cairn Terrier breeder could show you how to
            set your Norwich's ears while a local Border Terrier breeder
            could show how to set Norfolk ears.
          + Musculoskeletal development is attended to by exercise and
            diet. Make sure it gets proper nutrition but do not allow
            your puppy to get fat. Make sure he gets a good amount of
            exercise. Particularly good conditioning can be obtained by
            playing fetch up and down stairs, or repeatedly chasing a toy
            to the top of a recliner and back down.
          + Socialize your puppy and don't allow him to be traumatized.
            If you don't want a dog that's timid of new experiences take
            the dog out from age 8 weeks to 16 weeks (and preferably 6
            months), almost daily, and expose him to a wide variety of
            new experiences, people and other animals. Do not allow him
            to be traumatized during this period. Do not dote over him
            during those instances he encounters something new which
            frightens him; praise courage and ignore fear.
     * Use balance. The period up to six months of age requires somewhat
       of a juggling act. You don't want the puppy to be traumatized, but
       you still need to keep his nails short and may very well clip one
       too short and be in for a struggle to continue. You want the puppy
       to enjoy new experiences but still need to open his mouth and
       check is teeth which he may not enjoy. You want him to become
       accustomed to seeing strange dogs but still don't want him to
       become infected with parvo or the like. In the end call the shots
       yourself. There's a barrage of information, advise and opinion
       available on the various aspects of puppy raising and in many
       aspects you will find these resources to conflict with each other.
       Continue to read and listen, and from each new repertoire
       presented to you take what seems most useful and leave the rest.
       In the end you'll find several things that work for you and your
       puppy. And yes, you will make mistakes, so forgive yourself when
       you do; you're doing your best and you're only human. 
       
   What is the best age to adopt a puppy?
   
     Actually, it's probably not that crucial and depends upon the
     individual puppy in question. We ourselves prefer to adopt the
     puppies we buy for ourselves at around 7 weeks of age. When, in
     general, is actually the best time to adopt a puppy depends on who
     you talk to. The AKC Norwich and Norfolk Club's Code of Ethics
     requires its members to not allow puppies to be adopted before 12
     weeks of age (but the rule is broken more than enforced and we
     predict it will probably be changed in the near future). On the
     other hand, most experts agree the best age to adopt a puppy is from
     about six to nine weeks of age. At least one noted study done by Dr.
     J. Paul Scott, Director of the Animal Behavior Laboratory at
     Hamilton Station of the Roscoe B. Jackson Memorial Laboratory states
     the optimum time to adopt a new puppy is the 49th day of life. The
     study was done while deriving information to help the Guide Dogs for
     The Blind, Inc. New studies are constantly being done in this area
     and new theories developed. We've recently spoken with a breeder who
     says her pups are taken to foster homes at six weeks to begin their
     training as guide dogs for the blind.
     
   
     _________________________________________________________________
   
Breed Rescue

   Consider breed rescue instead if you don't have your heart set on a
   puppy and going through all the trouble and work a puppy entails --
   (contact the Norwich and Norfolk Terrier Club's Rescue and Protection
   representative, Sue Ely, 85 Mountain Top Road, Bernardsville, NJ
   07924, phone (908)E 766-5429 or (718) 398-9353)
     _________________________________________________________________
   
Health Issues

   In general the NF/NW Terrier is a hearty and long lived breed
   providing up to 15 (we believe the record is 20) years of
   companionship to its human family. The Norfolk and Norwich are the
   among the most "genetically clean" of breeds. They are relatively
   impervious to the hot-spots and skin allergies which pervade many of
   the terrier breeds.
   
   The book Medical and Genetic Aspects of Purebred Dogs edited by Ross
   D. Clark, DVM and Joan R. Strainer lists for the NF/NW Terrier only
   one genetic health problem, namely a skin disorder best treated by an
   antiseptic dip (while for most of the other terrier breeds there is a
   half-page or more of genetic disorders listed). At the time we are
   writing this article we have encountered no genetic health problems in
   our own dogs of this breed (which has not been the case with other
   breeds we have owned and bred).
   
   However there may be more to the picture than meets the eye. To begin
   with, there is not a great deal of both current and reliable
   information available on genetic disorders in these breeds. The most
   recent we have been able to locate is the now-12-year-old 1983
   copyrighted Aspects of Purebred Dogs edited by Ross D. Clark, DVM and
   Joan R. Strainer. We ourselves are eager for more current information.
   If you come upon some, please tell us what you've located and where.
   
   Quite recently the AKC's Norfolk and Norwich Terrier Club has sent out
   a survey questionnaire to owners and breeders of these breeds. It
   included a very lengthy list of reported/suspected genetic health
   problems in the breeds. The intent of the survey is to compile
   information to determine if these are genetically caused or not.
   Hopefully the data can be used correctly to that end and the lack of
   current and reliable information available on genetic disorders in
   these breeds will change in the near future.
   
  PERIODONTAL DISEASE
  
   They are prone to periodontal disease; you should brush their teeth
   weekly and they should have their teeth cleaned every six months by a
   veterinarian. We are uncertain if it is more a problem in this breed
   than in others, but we know for a fact that if you own a NF/NW (or a
   Scottie, Cairn or Yorkie) periodontal disease will definitely be a
   problem if you don't take care of your dog's teeth. Tooth loss in
   itself is not the major problem; the problem is the periodontal
   infection can give off toxins which cause other problems, notably
   heart disease. Also, if a deep periodontal pocket is allowed to deepen
   far enough the jaw itself can become weakened to the point of easy
   fracture.
   
  VACCINATIONS: LEPTOSPIROSIS REACTION
  
   Warning: do not let your vet give lepto vaccine more than once in any
   six month period!
   
   Note: giving lepto twice during puppy series frequently has resulted
   in an anaphylactic reaction on the second shot due to an allergic
   sensitivity developed from the first shot. Therefore give lepto only
   once in the puppy series and don't repeat for at least six months.
   
   We were very sorry to have just read the article in the Norwich column
   in the June, 1995 AKC Gazette about a Norwich breeder who learned this
   lesson the hard way -- her puppy died from an anaphylactic reaction on
   the second shot of lepto vaccine administered in a puppy series. There
   but for the Grace of God would we have went. We have had the same
   thing happen to Norfolk puppies, but were fortunate enough to have had
   epinephrine on hand at home to administer which saved the pup's lives.
   
     _________________________________________________________________
   
Resources

  BOOKS
  
   Books you may find of help and interest are listed below. (Note: Many
   of these may be mail-ordered by calling Dr.'s Foster and Smith at
   1-800-826-7206. They have a great free catalog; ask for one to be sent
   to you. You can even talk to a vet there for free during certain
   hours, the number you use for that is in the catalog.)
     * AKC Complete Dog Book, Howell Book House.
     * Dog Owner's Home Veterinary Handbook - 2nd edition, by Delbert
       G. Carlson, DVM and James M. Giffin, MD. Howell Book House ISBN
       0-87605-537-4.
     * Family Dog by Richard A. Wolters, Published by E. P. Dutton,
       ISBN 0-535-24554-5.
     * How to Be Your Dog's Best Friend by The Monks of New Skete,
       Little Brown and Company, ISBN 0-316-60491-7.
     * How to Housebreak Your Dog in 7 Days by Shirlee Kalstone =A91985
       Bantam Books ISBN 0-553-34119-7 (pbk.) 1.11.6
     * How to Raise and Train a Norwich Terrier by Barbara S. Fournier.
       TFH Publications, Inc. (Out of print but can be found at dealers
       at dog shows).
     * Norwich Terriers by Anna Katherine Nicholas. T.F.H.
       Publications, Inc. ISBN 0-86622-580-3.
     * The Norfolk Terrier by Joan R. Read, 2nd Edition. Published by
       author.
       
  CLUBS
  
   The Norfolk and Norwich Terriers are recognized by most major kennel
   clubs. In addition, the following clubs can give you more specific
   information upon request:
   
   ANTA (American Norfolk Terrier Association)
          48 Berry Hill Road, Oyster Bay, NY 11771 1.12.3
          
   AWTA (American Working Terrier Association)
          3644 Whitney Way, Sacramento, CA 95821
          
   NNTC (The Norwich and Norfolk Terrier Club)
          Box 707, Phoenixville, PA 19460
          
  ONLINE RESOURCES
  
   At present no other information on the Norfolk or Norwich Terrier
   exists on the Internet. Please contact us if you find out about any.
   This could include web sites or mailing lists.
   
   We run a mailing list called Norfolk-Norwich-L for fanciers and those
   interested in both breeds. To subscribe, send email to
   majordomo@teleport.com with no/any subject line and subscribe
   Norfolk-Norwich-L in the body of the message. Don't add your name or
   email address to the request.
   
   A general mailing list for terriers may also be of interest. To
   subscribe, send email to listserv@mail.eworld.com. In the subject
   line, put subscribe TERRIER-L firstname lastname. (Substitute your own
   first and last names for firstname lastname.)
     _________________________________________________________________
   
Disclaimer

   Who wrote all this, anyway?
   
     We did, and we admit as humans, we make mistakes, sometimes speak of
     what we know not and even occasionally fib. The opinions we express
     here which are our own; we reserve the right to change.
     
   
     _________________________________________________________________
   
    Norfolk and Norwich Terriers FAQ
    George Back and Diane McManus, gback@teleport.com.
